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I guess my point is that it would take some very dire circumstances before I'd even 'tap' the $225.00 (Max Merritt with core or $450.00 without) solenoid with a hammer. Especially since the situation can be resolved by cutting the power. I'm sure a light tap might cause a relay to stop relaying, a contact to stop contacting, a drive gear to slip back where it should be, or a spring to expand but I'd prefer not to possibly exacerbate a problem when I don't even know precisely what the problem is. It's just me.

Dave (clipper47), thank you for putting it in words I should have used.

Dave (JD), while searching for a manual I found an offer for a starter, at least similar to yours. The asked price of $495.95 would made me as reluctant as you to work with hammer and crowbar. No harm meant!
The suggestions from Howard and Jason (startergenrebuilder) doubtless are steps in the right direction for a durable solution instead of treating the symptoms by emergency stop switches and physical force.






[picture and manual source:electricalrebuilders.org/techlib/tech_lib.php]

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Gush and Dave(JD), Totally agree. Emergency measures are not required or suggested in this situation and not one that I would resort to unless life threatening when concerning a Packard in any event!

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Dave, a hammer tap to the starter not the solenoid. I used to work in an auto electric shop where we rebuilt starters and generators (pre-alternator period). When bench testing our rebuilt units we would just lightly tap the body of the starter or generator to relive stress from assembly. The higher and smoother speed could easily be witnessed.

Also, a light tap on the body of a stuck heater-defroster motors will many times get them going again.

(o{I}o)

Yikes! Seems as though it would be easy for it to be bumped back into "stress" mode. What kind of stresses were you relieving?
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
www.aerrebuild.com

A tap is not a bludgeon. This trick has been used for years, on carbs (and other parts) that without would have been unnecessarily disassembled.

Tapping with a hammer which sometimes means using the wooden handle end of the hammer to tap with IS an acceptable form of diagnostics and temporary "fix".

This is one of those classic 'fixes' that everyone does but noone really wants to admit to. KInd of like discussing gas mileage, sex life and littering.

Of course noone is a litter bug except ME!!! And all of that litter out there across the world is my fault.

SO apparently a hammer is just an extraneous tool in everyones tool box???? Either that or there are a lot of people that really don;t know use a hammer and probably shouldn;t let alone any other tool in the tool box.

What's the dealeo anyway??

The saga continues. During a few days of rain when I couldn't work on priority 1 (new patio) I got the starter out of the '49. This particular Auto-Lite starter that cranks the 356 engines is an odd duck.

1. When the starter receives power from the carburetor start switch a small electro-magnet pulls a hinged contact down which in turn...
2. Completes a circuit to a very powerful electro-magnet that causes a piston to be pulled in.
3. The piston is attached via a lever to a sliding gear that moves to engage the flywheel...
4. As the piston 'bottoms out' it pushes a button at the end of the cylinder shaft which...
5. Causes a copper washer to slam against the ends of the large copper bolts completing the heavy duty circuit from the battery to the starter motor.
6. The starter commences to turn over.

Rube Goldberg would be envious!

I cleaned all the moving parts and electrical contacts that are even remotely involved in controlling the power to the starter motor. lubed the parts that needed lubing. Cleaned the case, scraped off the paint and re-painted it.

I re-assembled the starter and bench-tested all the components one at a time. They all checked out. No sticking, no shorts. Then I tested the whole process together. The starter always stopped when the current was removed from the small primary electro-magnet. Twenty-five starts / stops without a hiccup.

So... I'm thinking I either have a short in the wiring between the carburetor/ignition switch and the starter
(as suggested by Tim Cole), or... something mechanical is preventing the springs from retracting the drive gear when it's actually in contact with the flywheel (I think this is unlikely).

Next step, re-install in the car and see what happens. Will let you know.

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I have been reading your msg regarding running starter...my 48 custom8 has recently exhibited the same problem.It has occurred 5 times in the last 2 years. I also remove the batt cable to solve the problem.I am anxiously awaiting the solution...Just to let you know we're out here..Thanks Dick

Dick, were you able to eliminate the carburetor switch as the culprit? It seems that it is the most common cause of the problem. Unfortunately, it appears my problem lies elsewhere. While I have your attention... could you consider adding your '48 Custom to the Owner's Registry here? You can add as much or little detail as you wish. It's always nice to be able to see the car under discussion.