Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

If there's a block for under $500, i would buy it just to have on stand by, especially if it's a hard to come by motor.

How come no one has suggested the SBC route to him yet??

I kid, i kid!

Based on my current nomadic (Navy) lifestyle, I think I'll pass on the Ebay block. The '37 six is unique to that year, but based on numbers, I think there are probably several out there. I know where I can get one in Iowa also, that runs, but I'll wait a few years to start looking for spare parts. It depends on where life takes me. I am planning on using the plug method with some JB weld to fix it temporarily.

I would have thought that a mild steel bolt/stud would do as a plug. Sealed just like any other stud there would be no reason to expect it to leak and this means you can drill and tap it in the car yourself if you wish.

Although I would reiterate that if it's not leaking there is no need to risk further weakening of the block.

I might add that the concept of 'freeze cracks' is a little strange to us Aussies - not something I would have ever thought of! When it comes to overheating, however, we know a little more LOL

I'm going to calm everyone down about the welding process, but ONLY because it's a Packard block. I'm not sure how many know this but nearly all of the inline blocks are CAST STEEL, not the typical CAST IRON. It still takes the right rod to weld it and shouldn't be attempted by just anyone, but all of the re-machining slow cool pre-heat stuff is moot on these things. They also don't like hardened valve seats nor do they ever need them. A good tig welder could sweat that in with silicon bronze as well.

Learned something new today, thanks. Always thought that hardened valve seats were a bunch of hooey for Packards, hardly ever saw a burned seat. Now I can take the rest of the day off

This crack on the engine block is repairable, but it takes a skilled craftsman to do it. I have seen far worse cracked blocks then this. Also if you want to keep the car original I would suggest keeping the old engine block.

i have hardened seats in my v8 heads. i thought it was just a good thing to do since it was all out and apart.


my original block was cracked....repaired...and crack spread. orginal repair was really good job....but still spread. i have kept it, but wont use it. i have another block now.

Hank

Ken, one reason for keeping the original block is that the Packard is probably registered using the engine number. Using the engine number was a common practice in many states when these cars were new. Yours might be different. Change the engine, different number, lots of time and effort to change the registration.

(o{I}o)

I have not registered the car yet, but on the title I have from Iowa, the car is registered using the VIN number on the firewall plate (not the theftproof number).

The block wasn't weeping coolant, so I will probably leave it alone for now. Long term, I'll use plugs and JB weld, or have it tig welded now that I know the block is cast steel.

As an aside, I believe the block is probably original to the car, but I know the title is not! The old gentleman I bought it from bought it with no title, and took the VIN plate and title from a scrap heap 115 and transferred it to mine. So, based on the disassembly, I think everything except the VIN plate is original, but I don't know the original VIN.

A little off topic but I would like to comment on the possibility of increased risk of block cracking due to use of valve seat inserts.
The block on my 1929 633 had been fitted with valve seat inserts before I got it. I reconditioned the engine at considerable expense and shortly after running it, it developed cracks between a number of inlet vales where there is a cooling passage On examination it was clear that the cracks resulted from the fact that the block had been weakened due by the machining necessary to fit the inserts plus some loss of thickness due to internal corrosion. Bear in mind that pressing in the inserts does not compensate for the loss of strength and could increase the stresses in the area due to the interference fit and if the insert expands thermally more than the block.
I don't like valve inserts and don't think we need them given that we do not use these cars as we would our everyday car.