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I do expect that I might rupture the cap but to leave it isn't an option long-term.

Draining the oil via the pump cover is ok as a one-off but not desirable on a regular basis - its not actually the lowest point in the pan so I would have to tilt the whole car.

I'm looking for originality so I want the plug to be operational.

I'm (sort of) ready for the possibility that I'll have to drill it out and then carefully cut it back with a hack saw.

This is why I'm going to wait till the square socket attachment arrives. At least I will have the best chance of getting it out if I can apply equal pressure to all 4 sides.

All done!

The impact wrench adaptor arrived this morning.

I ground off the edges to make the surface flat and increase the contact area with the plug

Found my biggest spanner

Jacked the adaptor tight up against the plug

One big pull, and Bob's your Uncle!

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Now that's a Special Packard Tool!

Cheap too for how well it worked!

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THe special tool u made is the best way to have done it. I was not aware that the oil pan is cast Aluminum???? If so then heating the pan boss to 250 degrees F would have expanded the aluminum enuf for ez removal with just a wrench. There are heat guns like a hair dryer for such purposes.

But what did u find to be the reason that the plug was so tite to begin with????? Any signs of a sealer or bad threads or what????

I'm not sure the pan is aluminium. I read somewhere it is steel "coated" in aluminium but I could be wrong. No doubt someone will know.

I did try heating it with an electric paint stripper heat gun but as noted before, because it was full of oil, it was not possible to get it hot enough as the heat was dissipated by the oil.

I guess it was just tight because it had not been removed for such a long time - the previous owner was a bit indifferent. It gave a loud click and then turned easily.

The pan is cast aluminum and I believe I'm correct when I say it remained so on the Senior models thru 1939.

PS - while you're under there, unless you've done it recently you might remove the access plate and clean the oil pump intake screen.

When I worked in a garage we ran into this all the time. A drain plug would have a slow drip because of a worn washer. The so called mechanic would "tighten it a little more, I guess" and the drip would stop or at least slow down while the customer drove off the lot.

Too bad for the next guy who has to remove the plug.

Of course the correct procedure is to inspect the washer at every oil change, and replace as necessary. The washer costs pennies and they should be replaced every 4th or 5th oil change but no one ever does it.

Incidentally this is why oil pans get stripped. It happens because chronic over tightening of the drain plug wears out the threads and over stresses them until they fail.

While reinstalling the drain plug my trick is to hold my hand on the ratchet or wrench close to the head of rachet or end of wrench on the plug head while tightening. By doing it this way you limit the amount of torque you are applying on your tightening arc. This makes it harder to over-torque the plug as you snug it up.

I like Rusty's idea of replacing the washer every 4-5 oil changes. Never occurred to me to do it that way. I do all of my own oil changes and haven't buggered the washers. Will pick up a new washer b/4 next change though.

KTS good idea putting the jack under the tool to keep from buggering up the plug.