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I'm evaluating a car that I don't have any direct experience with, but I expect the members of this group will, its a restored 110 convertible. Car is not located where I can easily inspect it personally, but I've has a pro outfit go out and do that, still waiting for a report. The car seems to be priced nicely, however the owner states it needs a clutch, so it not ready to use but based on a very complete photo set appears to be a really nice car. Near the fellow that is selling the car is a restoration shop that I believe he will allow the car to be moved to, very near his location. My pro inspection was visual, I'm thinking I could get this shop to evaluate the mechanically, would be interested in hearing some opinions on what would be worth checking. The previous owner did "engine work", no receipts available. The cars had a complete redo of the body and paint, this guy does that.The brakes have been redone hoses and master cylinders and wheel cylinders, pictures attached. I would think these sixes are relatively simple to fix (compared to seniors) but don't know their weak points. Any suggestions on what to look at?

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It looks like a nice "driver" restoration. Which is okay, as long as you're not paying for a show car. Below is a list of things I see wrong with it. I am not trying to knock the car, but because you asked "what to look for," these are the things that stand out with just the two photos you posted. If you post some interior shots, I'm going to bet that the list will grow quite a bit.

The grille obviously needs to be re-plated,
the bottoms of the doors do not line up with the body,
the running board mats are not correct,
running board trim is gone,
the running board side molding is not correct,
the glass in the hood ornament appears to be missing the etched lines,
it needs a new wiring harness,
the hood doesn't seem to fit properly
the top, unless it's not latched down, is not installed properly

That said, without knowing what was done to the engine and by whom, I would also recommend that you assume it will need an engine overhaul sometime within the next five years and pay accordingly.

Also, look at the metal work between the front fender and the running board. That's a normal place where they have rusted out. Take a magnet to the top of the fender at the area right where the running board starts... and look underneath to see if it looks like a lot of incorrect work was done.

It appears to be sitting quite low in the back, so I'd say it needs to have its rear springs re-arched. Since they didn't get done, check the front shock absorbers for leaks, check king-pins, tie rod ends, center steering link (smack dab dead center under the radiator). You really should drive it before buying. With the "short cuts" I see in just two pictures, I'm leery of what short cuts have been made to the chassis.

It's got a power top on it. Check to see if it works.

Check the windshield wipers

Look under the dash and inspect the wiring

Check the emergency brake

Check the instruments to see if they're working. Does the ammeter show a charge?

Check to see if the windows roll up and down smoothly.

Open the vent windows. Has the rubber weatherstripping been replaced?

Check the seat operation. Does it slide nicely back and forth?

Do the door handles droop? Have they been straightened for the picture?

Dear ClassicCrusier:

That is one of the more practial Packards to own, so the fair price makes it more attractive.

Lie on a piece of cardboard and inspect the coil springs - they may be worn out and collapsed.

Next have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth. There is a center link that is subject to wear. Ditto the steering gearbox. Jack up the front and check for king pin wear the same way as ball joints.

Shocks usually need to be rebuilt, but look for signs of looseness in the control arms.

The motor should have 30+ psi of oil pressure and temperature in the middle of the gauge. The generator should charge, and if the gas gauge doesn't work the tank is probably dirty.

The rear quarters like to rust behind the doors so check for blobs of putty. In really bad cases you can see the running board from inside the car. Check the door bottoms for putty as well.

On the motor, the front mount should be intact and there should be two rubber stabilizer pads on each side of the motor. There is a heat control valve on the manifold which should work.

The brake pedal should be firm, and check for drum wear by stopping quickly. If the pedal feels like it is moving then the drums are probably shot. Big problem. The hand brake should work as well.

If the rear springs are straight they need to be rebuilt.

Check on the right side of the water pump for the intake tube. If there is only a hose coming out of the radiator, then the tube is missing.

Check the starter button. These usually wear and benefit greatly from the use of a relay.

Well that's it for now.

Bill,

If you do purchase the '40 110 Convertible Coupe could you please include it in the Packard Owner's Registry?

Thanks for your comments I need to hear this stuff so as long as is constructive its good. I'm not planning to show the car so perfect running board mats are not a huge deal, the mechanical aspect is what I'm really concerned about.

- Recognized the grill is rough.
- Instrument panel needs work, its rough
- Some of the panel fits look a little off I guess not exactly sure what to expect how bad does it seem
- He covered the mats, not as original but a workman like substitute.
- Are you sure about the harness, it was supposedly changed.
- digital photography has some shortcomings the lines ar in the hood ornament, but it needs replateing
- attached close up of hood, does it still look misaligned?
- I guess I don't know why your saying the top is wrong?
- I don't see any signs of rust on the underside, do you in these attachments
- The dent in the radiator fins looks bad
- picture of dash wiring, seems a mess but how many dashes have you looked under, they usually look like this don't they?
- master cylinder and hoses brake cylinders have been replaced that should be OK.
- rear springs look arched in photos but car is on the lift.

Car definitely needs the clutch and the the gauges repaired


There is another similar car for sale that by all appearances is nearly perfect and supposedly needs very little but is substantially more expensive (~14K) so the question becomes is the more perfect car cheaper in the end??

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Couple quick comments - first, the car does not have overdrive, which means you need to consider what type of driving you will be doing - if you are thinking of extended highway travel, you will be installing an overdrive, not an inexpensive affair. The rest of the mechanicals must be inspected, starting with a compression test and cooling system inspection as noted. Finally, I really wonder why such a nice car with a decent restoration got such a shortcut on the dash - ick!

Oh, and the top function must be proven. Expensive repair if you want proper function.

My comment on the convertible top was based on the first photo. It does not look like it fits on the driver's side where it meets the windshield and side window. Can you pour water through that gap? Or is it just not latched down properly.

The dashboard/steering column are the wrong color and look awful. You'll be driving the car... do you really want to look at that the whole time? If it doesn't bother you, don't worry about it.

Wiring can look like a plate of spaghetti under the dash, but it should be neat and sorted. Not a mess, such as you have shown with the picture. Under the hood, the wires leading to the horns are bare.

Yes, the springs will looked arched with wheels hanging down while up on a lift.

In almost all cases, buying a well-sorted-out car is much cheaper in the long run. If you really want a good opinion, though, you need to reveal the asking prices of both cars, and we'd need to see photos of the "perfect" car. This yellow car could be "sorted out," perhaps inexpensively, if you're planning on doing the work yourself. $14,000 doesn't get you very far if you're having the work done professionally, and after that money is spent, it still wouldn't be nearly as nice as the properly restored car. I'm estimating that replating the grille and shutters will run you $1,500 by itself, plus labor to remove/install. Once you have the front clip removed, you're going to do a bunch of other things, because it just wouldn't make sense not to. With a car that wasn't restored properly in the first place, it's a slippery slope to keep from "upgrading things while-you're-at it".

If you reveal the asking price, we could probably advise you one way or another as far as pulling the trigger, but this car should be bought for under $20,000 (closer to $15,000), and used "as is" for the most part. Based on the short cuts we see (physically and seeing the quality of the "wiring job"), I'd be very leery that it was sorted out properly mechanically.

If the other car really is a show car and ready to take home prizes, as well as being mechanically sound, $35-40,000 is about top dollar.... and the cost to get it to that condition was probably $70,000+ if it was a good solid car to begin with.

Good luck. I hope this is of help, and allows you to make a decision with your eyes open. You were smart to ask. Too many people take the plunge, then start asking the questions they don't want the answers to.

I could be wrong, but I think the top's header panel should be finished more like this car. This is a 160, but I think it should be the same.

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Here's a 110 with the same type of header treatment.

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