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As I dive deeper into my project (see my blog)...

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...I occasionally run into minor issues. I am attempting to pull the water pump, and I removed the radiator and grille to facilitate removal and cleaning of the water distribution tube after removing the pump.

My issue is this: it looks like the two lower water pump bolts are partially obscured by the motor mount bracket. I'm thinking that a worn out motor mount may be allowing the engine to sag, thereby blocking access to the bolts.

Here is my question: I would try to raise the engine slightly, but where would you position a floor jack to lift it? The only place that seems likely to position a jack under would be aft of the crossmember, around the middle of the pan. Do I need to use an engine hoist? Any ideas?

Thanks!

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You've encountered a well-known and frequently encountered situation, yes - the motor mount has sagged, hindering access to the lower bolts. Several ways to tackle it, an engine hoist is one but certainly isn't needed and probably the least-convenient way to do it. There are several ways to approach it, one is that you can put a large flat block of wood under the oil pan as far forward as you can get and with a jack take off just a bit of load, perhaps 1/2 inch, and support the weight. Remove the center engine mount bolts, and then loosen the two large ones holding the mount frame or yoke to the crossmember. Then just push the mount yoke forward (or just remove it) to provide access.

Take a quick look to see if there is anything else that might interfere with the front of engine rising that small amount; in one case I was involved with (1941 senior), it was also necessary to loosen or remove an exhaust header to frame clamp to allow the jack to take the weight off the front rubber mount.

I've also done that job by putting a jack under the vibration damper to just raise the engine 1/2 inch or so. It probably isn't the best way as the vibration damper external ring is rubber-mounted to the hub. That said, it has worked for me several times.

You can take a couple of 2x2's fastened to another 2X2 making a U and place it at the front of the bottom of the engine and lift with a floor jack. Don't just try and jack it up on the oil pan. And it would be a good ideal to remove the two front engine bolts and than remove the whole bracket that's in your way. The motor mount looks like it needs to be replaced anyway.
Hope this helps.

Owen and Wesley,

You are confirming what I figured that I would have to do. Good hint on the exhaust pipe- I can see where that might be a hindrance.

I have jacked engines before at the dampener, but unfortunately the Packard does not allow access to it from below. The U-2 X 4 configuration may be a possible solution, but before I take the time to construct that I will try a large block under the front of the pan. Simple sounds better.

I have to pull my pan too, so eventually I may build a device to get around the crossmember.

Thank y'all!

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Success! I used a series of blocks on a floor jack under the frontmost part of the oil pan that I could access behind the crossmember. After removing the two front motor mount bolts, it easily lifted enough to clear the mount bracket.

I will need to get a new front motor mount.

The other issue is: how to remove the water distribution tube without tearing it up?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

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I usually reach in on the upper left corner where there is a gap and grab it with my needlenose vise grips. Tubes that are wet like yours will often come out with a moderate tug.

You are doing a nice thorough job, and although it is "mission creep" you might want to yank your freeze plugs and pressure wash out the block. 1948 was a long time ago and there can be deep sediment--and the plugs themselves can be about ready to go.

That's the first thing I tried- the tug I gave it was only moderate, and it seemed frozen in there. Maybe after I flush it it will loosen up.

As for the freeze plugs- do you know what size they are? It would seem that they would be a NAPA item, they may not have a listing by application, but should be listed by size.

When you reassemble, first check the pump body bolts for proper clearance length, those that are nearer the center of the block may be shorter because of the proximity of the cylinder wall. Also, they are threaded into the water jacket so gasket shellac or Permatex on the threads is necessary. Also, check to see if one or more of the pump bolts uses a flat copper washer beneath the head - if so there may be a flat recess in the pump casting.

Quote:

Joey, go this ways to partake in experiences our members and perhaps find additional information:

--> Water Distribution Tube Removal (1)

--> Water Distribution Tube Removal (2)

Howard (HH56) has been so kind to look through the Packard Literature and manuals to get a first-hand instruction (attached).




[source: 51-4 manual at PackardInfo.com]

Actually, for future reference, the oil pan is strong enough that if you just put a wide board across it, you can jack the engine. What I did after jacking the engine was to put another board between the pulley and the cross member, then gently lowered the engine so that the pan wasn't holding the engine for the entire job (This doesn't look possible without removing the radiator cradle first on your car). Scroll down about half way on this page of my blog.
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