Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

unfortunately the clock needs to come out to fix. Once out-let it run for a couple of days or weeks to insure it will contunue to work after reinstalling. My clock is in the glove compartment-easy to get out.

51Pack I made a video on the clocks for 55-56. Might be worth checking out even though yours is probably different. I think the first part of the video I explain how the clocks work mechanically. Usually there are 3 distinct sections: electric winding, escapement, and gearing for the hands. Point is there is a lot of moving parts that ALL need oil in an old clock.

P.S. If you really care about having a working clock, send it to the Clock Works in WI.

I prefer the right twice per day original clocks. Much more economical.

I sent one '50s era off(12V) and had it "fixed" for an astronomical sum ~$400 because I had to take the whole dash cluster out anyway and ship to same place to get the odometer repaired. {cf:A battery atomic clock, last more than ten years, is about $15 and never looses a second, plus tells the weather!} Clock ran fast requiring resetting and worked about 6 months. Plus sitting in the garage, it ran the battery down below start in two weeks, so I had to add the batt shut off next and of course reset the clock each time.
The best option, I've seen is to have them converted to a modern quartz movement. The old stuff just was never right to begin with(my opinion). It's just that silly purist unsightly digital "step" move vs the factory analog.
One of those marketing ploys, people ask for a clock, you give them a costly not- so-functional one. They were pretty much all coming from one or two of the more inexpensive companies, no Patyk's or Rolo's, and of course, they sell more if they don't exactly work right. The post war American way...
I suspect more people will be driving/repairing* Packards after the autoworkers strike when they announce the new pricing. Glad I bought during the epidemic...preferred brand of the Taliban but w/o 50 auto option.
* - including me. Incentive to get moving.

I'm sure I can follow the instructions on getting the clock up and running, but the major issue I have is the fact that I have to "remove the cluster" and that might be more than I can handle without damaging something else.

The 1951 cluster, as I recall, is easy to remove as long as you're only after the clock. There are two screws accessible from the bezel inside of the car that need to be removed, then it tilts and pulls free of the dash as far as the wires will let it. Likely it will be far enough to get to the back of the clock in order to pull out its lamp socket and to disconnect its wire. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.

Again, I'm going from memory from when I last did it many years ago but I don't recall it being difficult at all.

Quote:
If someone has not worked on the cluster before you and left them off, in addition to the screws visible at the top there will probably be two nuts on studs at the bottom of the cluster. Those can only be reached from under the dash and as I recall one of them is in a fairly congested location and only removable if using an end wrench.

I know cluster was removed prior. I will look for the screws and hope that I can just remove the clock and not the entire cluster. Big thanks

You have to remove the cluster regardless. There is no way around that but I forgot about the two studs that Howard described. It’s really a matter of how much it needs to be removed which is more or less up to how much movement you can get with all the other gauges connected.

I had my clock rebuilt on my '54 about 5 years ago. Except for one blown fuse it's been trouble free and kept good time. With a little patience I was able to remove the clock from behind the dash without having to touch anything else in the instrument cluster.

The 51-54 clusters are probably the easiest to remove. Remove the four fasteners. Reach up and unscrew the speedo cable. Lay a soft towel over the steering column. Pull the cluster out and lay it face down on the towel. No wiring needs to be disconnected except the clock, which can be done by separating the fuse holder.

If I remember correctly, you must first remove the clock setting knob on the front. Then remove the screws from the back, and the clock should lift out.