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On a side note, here is a available alternative replacement for those front bump stops. The Steele one is 1-5/8" tall, this one is 1.563" (1-9/16"). Steel is $143.29 per pair, this one, $14.29 per pair.

amzn.to/3Owiaba

6/4 kiln dried ash acquired less than 2 miles from my house.

Just need to mill it down to the correct dimensions.

B-pillar and under package tray wood that connects the B-pillar to the trunk wood rumbleseat perimeter frame has been removed so I can use them as patterns.

The b-pillar is made of two different pieces. A thin inner piece which is about 1/2 thick that acts as tack strip and screws into the b-pillar metal channel. Also, based on the small nails left in there, is where the windlace tab nails into.

The outer piece is much thicker and is contoured as a filler to match the profile of seat. It's wrapped on three sides with some kind of fabric that almost looks like bow-drill cloth. That piece then screws into the inner piece.

The horizontal price that runs from the B-pillar back to the bracket in the rumbleseat area and also supports the front perimeter frame of the rumbleseat opening.

It's held in by a couple of wood screws from a brace off the pillar, and a through bolt and nut from the top flange and a couple of nails. Not sure if those nails held down anything else of they were temporary support during assemble.

The rear is a real pain. There is a bolt down from the top through the rumbleseat perimeter frame, into the wood coming from the b-pillar and through the metal bracket off the body. Also a couple of wood screws through that bracket. There is no way to remove that bolt as it has to come out through the top, and the sheetmetal forward of the rumbleseat prevents that. The wood frame must have been assembled and the body sheetmetal then welded/brazed/leaded together over the frame.

So to get the piece out, I had cut the wood around that bolt. To replace it, I'll have to notch the rear of new piece so it can slip in around that bolt. I can then wood glue a plug into that notch. The wood screws through the bracket will hold everything firmly anyway.

I'll work on milling down the wood, and reproducing those pieces this weekend.

Dang! You’re going to town! Nice work. Also, I’m sure all the photos will help others down the road. Keep up the great work!

Inspiring project, Kev. When you have down to the last screw, hold it up, take a picture, and say, “This is my ‘37.”

I'd like to move the entire seat assembly in my '37 120 conv.cpe back 2" or a little more. This would obviously require removing 2" or more off of the wooden package tray. Does it look like there would be any other modification needed other than new holes in the floorboard? I'd like to move it back as far as possible while leaving room for the top to fold down properly. *The seat back is already against the forward edge of the package tray. the angle of The seat back angle is fairly comfortable, and I already have to slump in the seat to see out. I'd be better off sitting closer to the floor and further back. I don't think this seat is adaptable to sitting lower without destroying it, but moving it back may be do-able. Replacing the package tray with a new one might be an option to avoid cutting up the original, which seems to be quite solid. Moving the seat back might interfere with battery access. I hadn't thought of that. While you're working on your car, I suggest looking for any places where dust and drafts can enter, and dealing with them, while making sure any drain holes remain open.

I know what you mean, people were smaller than, Grandma blamed it on the pablum making us grow too big!
*****Look out, hare-brained idea coming!!!*****
As an alternative you could look at the seat itself. I imagine you could get 2 inches out of the seat back.
If it is like mine it is built like a couch with more depth than necessary. It would require fabricating a whole new one and also to replace the existing seat springs with thinner modern high density foam. You could leave the cabin structure the same by having the seat assembly itself sit 2 inches back on the current adjustment rails. The seat itself could also be thinned down so you sit lower, this helps with seeing out the windscreen.
In this way you have not touched the car and still have the original seat if needed at re-sale while customizing the car to suit you best.
****Now back to your regular scheduled Thanksgiving!!***
Bob J.

Not sure if you have the any wooden riser wedges under the seat tracks or not, but raising the rear of the tracks 1" at the rear bolt, makes the back of the seat sit more upright, vs overly reclined. That the brings the seat back forward several inches off the package tray/bulkhead. Then you can move the entire seat back several more inches.

I'm 6'4", with a 32" inseam, so more length in the torso then in the legs, and it's plenty comfortable for me after that modification.

Also this being the back edge of the seat cushion up, so your now sitting in a higher position. Which was much better for visibility for both me and my wife.

There are several service letters on the subject, and also include a template for the riser block wedges.

Obviously is you move the entire seat assemble back, you'll have to drill new through holes in the floor. One of my projects while I have the car apart is to plug the old floor holes with dowels and glue.

Quote:

I’m 6’1” with a 30” inseam so it’s always the roof that’s in my way! That’s why I was able to drive my 1964 Imperial Crown Limousine by Ghia for many years in spite it’s non-adjustable front seat.

Having custom, thinner cushions would work well, but I'd have to pay someone to create them, if I could find anyone willing to try. My car has standard cushions and maybe repro springs. It isn't especially comfortable, just OK. I had a '39 opera coupe and it had seat cushions like a feather bed. (Marshall type?) It had very comfortable seating even though it was in poor condition.