Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Guscha, upon clicking your link I think I've found the disconnect - I used the "regular" POR-15, vice the "tank sealer". As I mentioned above, the tank is not perfectly clean inside. As such, I did not use a sealer, and plan on removing the tank again in the future to clean, seal and paint it.

This time around I simply hit it with a rattle can of satin black to hold external rust at bay, as the MEK and handling scrapes had take a bit of toll on the paint.

Attach file:

---

  (114.06 KB)

So, I then installed the tank, and a clear plastic fuel filter between the tank and the steel line. (again, this is temporary) My line of thought here is that the fuel can eat away at the current failing liner. I estimate about 10% of the tank has liner remaining, that I was not able to remove. Once that is gone, I'll pull the tank again.

I put a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank, and started her up. GAS IN THE FILTER! My lines are not blocked.

I am happy to report that, for the first time in my ownership of the car, I was able to take her for a drive!

Now, it was only around the block, and only in 1st gear, but it was a drive, nonetheless! And the best part - my two daughters (3 and 5 yrs old) were along for the ride!

Once we got back they helped me give the car a quick wash, again for the first time since I've owned the car.

Attach file:

---

  (114.56 KB)


  (104.27 KB)


  (77.54 KB)


  (97.65 KB)


  (93.01 KB)

Congratulations on the progress. I'm still wondering how a car that looks that good wound up with a tank full of crud that looked that bad. I just got my tank back from being "boiled" and now wondering what the best preventive would be to avoid the mess you had.

Thanks, Howard! I could only speculate on how the fuel tank got that bad. There was definitely evidence it had been messed with before. I could also only speculate which product would best prevent it - but I'm eager to hear what you decide on. From my research so far, I'm leaning toward the POR15 product.

The car definitely photographs well - the phrase, "good from far, but far from good" comes to mind, haha. Most of the chrome has pitting/fading, the drivers side fender trim is creased, the paint is cracking and chipping, windows bubbling, a rip on the drivers door panel, etc. Not complaining, mind you! I'm greatful to have it in its current condition! It will certainly suit my intended use perfectly - which is to take my girls for icecream on Sunday afternoons, and the occasional cruise-in. Of course a thorough detailing and wax won't hurt, either!

Some observations from the drive:

Handling is all over the place - the car likes to wander. I'll have to get underneath and determine what is needed, at some point.

Shifting - only after extensive cleaning/degreasing and "pb blasting" was I able to get the car OUT of first gear, again for the first time since I've owned it. This is great since I can now let the car idle and not have to be in it...but I need the other gears as well! I've read the documented issues with the shift linkages, and the miracle of oil in that shifter housing hole. Should I continue to PB Blast it every few days, and see if it frees up? At what point should I take it apart and clean it? The rest of the links seem to have a LOT of play, as well.

Brakes were very weak, as would be expected. I'll have to go through those.

After warm-up, the ammeter dances WILDLY across the entire gauge. Any thoughts here? Yesterday was my first time seeing this, previously it seemed to work correctly.

SMOKING! - Only after warm-up. Previously, I thought this was just old oil burning off the exhaust manifold. However, now that I can put the car in neutral and observe the engine running, I can see that the exhaust manifold leaks, and it's exhaust smoke that I'm seeing. Why would it only smoke once it's warm, that seems odd to me? (Thinking "aloud" - As I type this, I recall that the smoke seems fairly white in color - possibly a crack the block or head gasket that only leaks water by once the cooling system has built pressure? Uh-oh...)

Noise - the motor makes a clackity-clack noise, almost sounds like a diesel. Lifter? valve? The exhaust leak?

As always, I welcome feedback and suggestions!

One suggestion on the gearshift is liberally apply the PB to the outer shift levers. I'm not as convinced the oil hole does as much good as having the oil dribble or run down the shaft as it is applied to the hole.

The inside rod has no tight clearances -- just a rubber bushing -- so any benefit is going to be felt as some oil runs out the slot and lubricates the lower shift lever. Most of the oil just runs out the end of the tube. The upper shift lever above the slot gets no benefit other than what runs down on the outside of the shaft.

Here is what my linkage looked like. Notice the corrosion around the spline area and on the rod above and below the slot. Linkage was totally frozen because the shift levers were all but glued to the shaft due to the corrosion. It took disassembly to get mine working and the upper lever was quite a project getting it free.

Attach file:

---

  (11.27 KB)


  (24.16 KB)

Howard, as always, thank you you kindly for the information! How difficult was the dis - and re-assembly? Any tricks required, other than PB Blaster? Special tools or the like?

No special tools other than a steering wheel puller. You will need to access the end just below the wheel to remove an anti rattle spring at the end of the rod. I thought it easier to remove the entire column to disassemble but then I always do things the hard way.

I didn't try but it probably could be removed without taking the column out. You might even be able to do it just working the lower end without messing with the anti rattle spring but some clearance and work access might be an issue. Disassembly is just removing a cotter key and a couple of C clips. The issue will be if the levers are stuck. Removing the top one took heat and brute force on mine.

EDIT: On second thought it may have to come out because you have to drive the pin out of the shift "tongue" which connects it to the inner rod. I don't know if that could be done with the entire assembly in place.

Mark,
for including your '49 Eight Touring Sedan in the Registry. I've taken the liberty of adding one of your above pic's to the entry.

Howard, thank you for the tutorial!

Mal, thank you for adding the picture - my multiple attempts at doing so last night were unsuccessful for some reason.

Mark,

Pictures have both a size and type limitation. This and this from the FAQ's section may help.