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The front are easy to change later if there is sufficient meat on the shoes. The rears are a PITA because of having use a puller to get the drums off. So you don't want to have to go back in there if you can help it. So unless they are pretty much new shoes, replace them, also, change the wheel seals and repack axles bearing for the same reason. Who knows when it was done last and it a pain job to do. So do it once and it should be good for a very, very, very long time.

Also, brake hardware and spring kits are not that expensive, so I just replaced everything while I was in there.

Got a start on the brakes today. Didn't get as far as I wanted, but at least I'm moving. I took the passenger and driver's front drums all the way apart. I left the backing plate on there for now. Haven't made up my mind if I'm going to pull the backing plates off and repaint. Probably will.

Driver's wheel cylinder was leaking, passenger was not. But local NAPA had new wheel cylinders for about $15 so I picked up new ones. Shoes on the driver's side had a lot of meat like the passenger side. Inside of drums need to be cleaned up a bit, but the guys that looked at them said they don't need to be turned. I also picked up some new hold down springs and pins. Didn't get new return springs because they look like they're fine (but I don't know anything).

I was hoping to pull the rear drums today but the local parts stores do not have a puller that will work. So I will have order one on Amazon and hope it gets here soon.

Bearings on both sides appear okay, I think. At the very least I'm going to clean them up and repack them. Can I reuse the seal on the front inner bearing? I haven't pulled them out yet.

I want to swap the front springs out for the ones I picked up from Tucson, but I'm not sure how to go about it. Do I just disconnect the upper control arm and let the lower down carefully on a jack? I'm also concerned that the springs I have aren't actually right. The replacement springs have 10 coils, but I think the ones on the car have 9....but it's hard to see and be certain.

New rubber hoses and drum puller are coming. I'm measuring out the brake lines to see what length I need to get. I'm going to try and use the premade lengths at NAPA so I don't have to flare everything.

-Kevin

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  Driver stripped down to backing plate.jpg (386.58 KB)

Quote:

Kevin, when you get the shoes relined, make sure you give them the drum inside diameter after the drums have been turned, that way they will be correct for the actual drum size.

Kevin in a few posts you’ll probably have a question or two about setting / checking the rear axle bearing clearance. I’ve been working on a shop manual supplement on this bearing clearance subject for a while now, and if you don’t mind you could be the ultimately motivated proof reader for me. Deal?

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Packard Rear Axle Bearing Shimming Procedure Expanded 007.pdf Size: 1,908.10 KB; Hits: 22

Ross Miller adjusted my brakes last week and they are solid now. They've never felt this good.
An expensive shop in Oregon that specializes in muscle cars 'adjusted' my brakes and pedal and stoplight switch poorly last year before I left for MD. They messed them up because they didn't understand how the brakes and handbrake should be done.
Ross made this little video which I wish I had watched long ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1Zc3aW18Z4
Check it out, Kevin, since you're working on the brakes. You're doing an amazing job on your car.

On the brake work, it will help to get a brake tool kit and even an inexpensive one like this will do the job.

For the steel lines, you can get them already bent to the proper shape and size through Classic Tube. Don't worry about what it says in their site - you can order individual pieces too. Also don't worry about the models they list possibly not including yours. Just compare to the parts book. For 1951-1954, the only differences are power vs non-power brakes and I doubt that's a real issue as I put power brakes into a 1952 and used the same lines.

Paul - I don't plan on relining the shoes. The fronts are still in good condition from what I can tell. The rears are unknown. I'm planning on just taking them in to NAPA and replacing them with new shoes. Like BigKev said, I really don't want to drive into the rear drums again anytime soon.

David - That will be very helpful! I plan on pulling both axles and getting new seals on both, so I will need to set the bearing clearance as well. I'll let you know how it goes.

Joe - I've watched Ross's video several times, and it's very helpful (thanks Ross!). I'm planning on adjusting my brakes exactly how he does. Just need to get these rear drums off!

Don - The Panama is at my neighbor's place on his lift, and he has all the brake tools...that is, when I can find them. His shop is a mess. But the right tools make all the difference...the spring tool is awesome. I'm going to see what I can do with bending my own lines, but it's nice to have Classic Tube as a backup.

I'm on a timeline to get the car off the lift within two weeks. My neighbor needs it for his own car soon.

-Kevin

The brake tools come in handy for more than just brakes too! On my Patrician blog, I used one to insert the little metal disk at the bottom of the steering column which held it in place against the stiff spring while I put in the cotter pin.

I learned from another thread that the part number for the springs is stamped on the upper coil. So I took a look at my springs and found #455055.

Checking the master parts list here, I found that these are load 2650 rate 120 lbs.

They are meant for the 5426 model the Executive Sedan: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... fo/viewmodel.php?model=30.

The Panama (5411) specifies load 2040, rate 90. Way lower than the Executive Sedan. So I won't be swapping springs right now. I'll just roll with a lean for a bit.

Anyone want some springs for an Executive?

-Kevin

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Question....which wheels are correct for the car?

While working on the brakes I'm planning on having all the old mismatched tires removed and the old rims sandblasted. Then prime, paint, and new tires when the brakes are done.

Problem is I apparently have two different styles of wheel. I have two of wheel #1 and three of wheel #2. The offset is obviously different on both of them. Wheel #2 will put the tires further out towards the side of the car.

Which wheel is correct?

-Kevin

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  Wheel 2.jpg (575.44 KB)