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I have no idea how the original straight six would have felt on a 3-speed. My 54 straight eight on the Ultramatic is not a speed demon off the line.

But in comparing the numbers, Packard 6 would have been 100hp; the 1960 Jaguar XK 3.8L six would have been 220hp. Now this Jag motor is a bit tired, so probably not putting out max HP. But still, more peppy and high winding then the stock motor.

My '37 115c is certainly not a powerhouse off the line.

If it weren't for the fact that most people are staring at the car in the first place, I'd be getting honked at for the excessively casual departures from stop lights or signs.

I appreciate their patience.

Even my daughters underpowered '66 Futura (200 straight six, C-4 auto) has more giddy-up and go.

Observation:

While I have been sorting all my exterior lock handles (doors, rumble seat, and trunk), I am just curious why Packard and I am sure other manufacturers of that era chose to attach the handles with exterior mounted screws? Someone with a flat-bladed screwdriver could pull the handle off and then use that same screwdriver to open the lock in about 20 seconds.

I guess it provided some small protection against someone just looking for unlocked doors/trunks/etc.

I'd think a 115 C would have fairly good pickup from a stop.

They weigh a little less than a comparable 120 and have a lower geared axle. Torque is very nearly the same at lower RPM.

I've found that many old cars don't respond well to "winding out" the lower gears.

It's often best to get rolling in low then quickly shift to second at 8 to 10 MPH and do most accellerating in second up to 35-40 MPH.

It's important to see to it that the car is in a good state of tune and that there is no brake drag, soft tires, unecessary weight aboard, etc that will tax the available power.

A dirty air filter, bad vacuum advance, restricted exhaust, heavy carbon deposits, and so forth will reduce performance substantially, as will gas pedal linkage that doesn't open the throttle all the way, carburetor issues,
stuck heat riser valve, choke not opening fully, and so forth.

I agree about shifting before your 'modern' ear says so.
I do remember my Father-in-law giving me hell for winding up the engine before shifting, "Son, they're made to lug!" he would say. And he was right, just getting her rolling through the 1st and 2nd shift then let her go in 3rd worked sweet. This was on the Flathead Fords, but I bet it is the same throughout pre-war low compression engines. All the same, I like smooth acceleration with lower speeds in these old girls. I have newer cars if I need to go fast!
Have fun,
Bob J.

I used a Gunson's Color Tune kit to dial the carbs in a bit better. I'd rather this motor run a little rich rather than lean. With the color tune I was able to get a blue flame with an occasional hint of yellow. Which is one the edge of rich. Before the rear three cylinders were giving me blue/white, which is lean.

It a neat do-dad that screws into a spark plug hole and has a clear portion where you can observe the cylinder flame color. I have two of them, so I put one in cylinder 2 and another in cylinder 5. That way I could check each carb bank at the same time and adjust each carb until they matched.

Also worked on making a new throttle lever arm to replace the thin bracket I used for mockup. Still waiting for my heim joint linkage fittings to arrive.

The bracket isn't perfect, but good enough to work. Made from thick aluminum bar stock.i don't have access to a mill, so a grinder and drill press had to make do.

I made it with a several holes to give me some adjustment ability. The holes are tapped to accept the heim joint fittings and those be back up with jam nuts.

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Started to strip and paint the front bumper irons. Had do use a grinder to level all the rust. Currently sprayed with a coat of rust converter to kill all the rust in the pits.

Tomorrow they will get a coat of black.

Then those and the front bumper can go back on the car. Since we have been driving the 37. Figure we should have that front bumper on, just in case.

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Also, I was able to get the new carb linkage in place. The pedal action is much smoother now. There was a fine line between insufficient return spring pressure and too much. Too little, and the throttle plates sometimes wouldn't fully close. Too much, and the U-shaped rod that snakes its way from the pedal and around the motor would start to bow before the throttle plates open.

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You mentioned rust converter. What do you use?

Don, I use this Rusteloum Rust Reformer. My local Menards and Ace Hardware carry it. Cheaper at Menards. But this stuff works very well.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rust-reformer

I remove as much of the surface rust as I can with a wire brush, grinder, or sandpaper first, then I give the metal a wipe down with some paint thinner to remove any dirt/grease/oil. I spray the reformer, let it dry 24 hours, then top coat it.

It's worked pretty well for me. Perfect for bracketry, chassis parts and things that are well suited to be painted with a rattle can.