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I'm to the point of installing the engine on my 39 Super 8 and decided I wanted to clean up the engine bay and get everything painted first that I've neglected to do previously. Since this car has set for almost 30 years I am thinking that I probably need to go ahead and replace the metal brake lines and gas line. I've got the three replacement rubber lines, wheel cylinder kits, and master cylinder kit already.
I'm really torn as to replacing the lines with stainless from Kanter for about $300 or going original from the local parts store. I can get the tube bending tool, flair tool, and tubing for less than $100 and have the tools for the future (always a plus). Of course it would be easier, perhaps, to just put pressure on the lines to make sure they are clear and use the current ones. But, for a little time and money I'm thinking it would be safer to go with new.

Please offer your comments and suggestions! This is my first project of a car this old and I want it to be a safe driver. It is intended as a driver and not a show car but I do not want to put disc brakes or anything to take away from originally of a classic.

Thanks in advance to anyone who responses.

Gene

Gene, Even if the original lines look good on the outside they do deteriorate from the inside out. You will eliminate a multitude of potentual problems by replacing the lines now. A pinhole in the gas line can drive you mad and a weak brake line that ruptures can be disastrous. It seems that when a brake line fails it does so at the most inopportune time. Glad to hear of your progress on the 39. Roger

Again, if you use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, you'll never, ever have to worry about brake lines, master and wheel cylinders again. See discussion of DOT 5 elsewhere on these General/Pre & Postwar Forums so you don't suffer the usual dated "warnings."
A friend has the same batch in his '42 160 drophead he installed in 1978 and it still looks new. I've used nothing but in my Packards since the late '70s. We've never had a problem. Just flush your system with denatured/rubbing alcohol from any pharmacy, blow the system with compressed air and away you go.

Since we don't know what sort of service or care your car had in the past please replace all the steel lines. They pit on the inside just as you can easily observe in any old wheel cylinder. During a national meet one year I replaced an oily, shiny clean brake line on a 52 that had burst at the low spot under the engine because of corrosion from the inside. Nuf sed.

More than likely you can buy the lines premade in lengths close enough to what you need so no need to invest in a flaring tool. You can tube the entire car for less than $60.

Throwing in my I'd also vote to replace them for the safety reasons mentioned. Not fully trusting my double flaring, did my 56 with standard off the shelf lengths from local parts stores. The only problem piece was the long one to the back along the frame. A standard one piece long enough length wasn't available. Solved that by getting 2 different shorter lengths and a line connector. Had the connection point fall just above a body support where it isn't too visible.

I agree with replacing both the brake and fuel lines, but I would do it with Cupro-nickel lines. Audi and Volvo are both running these lines and they will never rust. It is easily purchased here in the States and is much easier to work with than regular steel.

Gene,

I can only relate my decisions as regards my '41. I pulled all the old brake lines. This was not a hard decision... the lines were over 70 years old with 70 year-old DOT3 congealing in them. Also I had to consider that this is not a dual master cylinder providing some level of backup... if any one of the lines let go, you're up a creek. I am using regular steel not stainless because it is easier to bend and flare and I figure the lines will outlast me using DOT5. I didn't find measuring, bending and flaring lines (for my '49) was that difficult but it was time consuming and a little nerve-wracking for a first timer. Whatever your decision on line material or pre-made vs do it yourself, I'd strongly recommend replacing the lines.

I guess the jury is in as I thought it would be. I'll start replacing them this week with the Cupro-nickel tubing. Anything to make it easier fora first-timer is good with me.
I'll check with Advanced Auto and NAPA to see if they carry that type of line. If I'm not mistaken the brake lines are 1/4" and the gas lines are 5/16" so I'll get about 20' of each for the job. I don't mind flaring but it has been 30 years since I've done it. I do remember that I used a single flare and I noticed that many of today's tools are double-flared.
I do want to make one continuous line, as per original, so I'll remove the old and copy it bend for bend and snap the new back into place.
On another note, the plumbing is FINISHED in the house. I took a shower in the new master bath. Mama is happy with it and I'll have more time now to work on the cars.
Thanks again everyone!
Gene

Brake lines must be double-flared.

Be sure to square and deburr the lines inside and out. The ends must be perfectly square, and clean. Here is a good article:

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/fbomb/113_0708_hard_line_bending_basics/viewall.html