Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

I did not get a shot of the driver's side that I had to create/weld just as you do on the 'drinker's side', but it was rather straight forward. In the below image you can see the cage nuts are held in with tabs. It is a matter of removing one good cage nut and then trimming out a piece of steel to match the original tab shape. Weld on a 5/16-24 nut to it.
When you create the replacement patch, use the location you took the cage nut from to make a pattern of the hole and two slots that fit the profile pattern of the replacement piece. (They are all the same hole/slot pattern).
If the driver's side is still okay use it to align the hole placement, if not use the fender itself to make a gauge to the top cage nut placement.
I found you pre bend the tabs 90 degrees, push them through the slot and simply peen them over.
Bob J.

Attach file:

---

  Cowl Cage Nut.JPG (320.26 KB)

Bob, thanks, that is helpful!

Well looks like the upper support pins and kings pins are shot. So I'll attempt to tackle those while the front sheet metal is off the car.

Still in the process of degreasing the engine and the frame. I've pulled the engine fan and belt off to give me more access.

Attach file:

---

  20231107_105322.jpg (404.54 KB)

Can anyone tell me what size kingpin reamer I need for a 37 Junior?

Is it .868"?

Hoping to find one of the long ones that index in the opposite bushing.

Manual says .866 for 37 six king pin bushing.

Attach file:

---

  bushing.jpg (248.87 KB)

The reference is to a burnishing tool. It also says not to ream the bushing.

Good point. I seem to recall reading that the purpose of burnishing was to forcibly expand the bushing. While it did get the inner bore to the appropriate size its primary purpose was to force the outer diameter of the bushing to enlarge and fit more tightly in the retaining bore so bushing was less likely to move or rotate.

According to Ross, said tool or equivalent burnishing bars in general are NLA. His advice, locktite the bushings in place, and use a reamer. Which is the same size reamer used on vintage Chevrolets.

The hard set Locktite is probably a good idea. I think you can get away with reaming, taking very light cuts. It may be necessary to grease reamed bushings more often, since it is said to defeat the oilite lubrication advantages with that style of bushings. Oilite bushings may also break apart if reamed. Replacement bushings may be plain bronze, and reaming may be fully acceptable. Honing with a Sunnen type machine will work, though it isn't recommended that I know of. If you hone to size by any method, be sure to carefully scrub out the finished bushings to remove any embedded grit.

Honing is typically not recommended as it imparts fine particles of abrasive into the material that can cause wear on the pin.

That said, a quick Google search brought up burnishers of various sizes but priced around $450! Maybe a truck shop would have the equipment and be willing to burnish them for you.