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An 8 might not fit in a 110. It barely fits in a 120.

If I had Elon's money, I'd commission a high compression crossflow head for the Packard 110 six and eight. I figure either engine could make 200 to 225 HP with high torque without sacrificing durability. A 5 speed overdrive transmission would be nice, too.
A well-engineered supercharger for either engine would get you to about the same place with a stock or near-stock engine.

A good supercharger set up and a 4 speed GM single coupling Hydramatic would make a very good combination, too. A custom radiator would be required.

Fuel leaked patched and exhaust leak sorted.

I cut the bad section of carb hard feed line away and temporarily replaced it with 5/16 Fuel hose. There was a pinhole in the seam of that line.

The exhaust leak was is from a slight misaligned in the collector pipe where the two manifolds come together. The two inlet flanges were not square to one another causing a slight gap when bolted to the manifolds. A thicker exhaust gasket fixed that.

Running fine now, no leaks. Back to playing with sheetmetal.

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I've used the 5/16 fuel hose for short sections with great success. I continue to check it and will replace it long before it gets brittle.

Glad you were able to fix the exhaust leak with a thicker gasket. I ended up using some exhaust sealant on a new gasket to fix a leak on my dad's '38. Worked great.

Don’t know if you need one but this rumble seat fender step just appeared in Facebook Marketplace. Since I’m viewing it in an app, I have no link but can try to get one of you’re interested. Sorry - apparently we can no longer post a PNG from the screen capture so maybe a bug? Says it supports only JPEG.

Don you can get a link by hitting the Share button in the app.

Thanks, I already have all the rumble seat steps!

Did some test fitting on the grille into its shell today. The shell needs some repair at the bottom point and along one edge where it meets the bottom of the grille.

I'm not happy with having to lower the radiator core support to prevent the engine fan from hitting the lower water neck on the radiator. The clearance is still pretty tight (like 1/8") and then this will for sure throw off my sheet metal alignment. Also, god forbid something rocks or moves, and contact is made at a high RPM.

So, after a consult with Ross, my options are to trim the blade length on the current engine fan, or replace it with an electric. If I did an electric, the space I have is less than 2-1/2 inches between the engine and radiator, as both the water pump and coil stick out. At 2-1/2" of clearance only "thin" fans would work, which have lower CFM. So at that point, a larger and higher CFM fan in a pusher config (front of radiator) would actually work better.

But before I go down that route and spend the money for a quality fan, relays, temp switch, etc. I think the simplest option is usually the best. So I am going to pull the radiator back off, take the fan off, and trim it down about 1/2" on each blade. That should provide plenty of clearance and peace of mind.

Would one of the modern flex fans work? Probably be easy to find one for a Jag engine. Packard had dealers cut off excess length when doing one of the prewar model engine swaps using later engines before finally issuing a smaller diameter fan. Precise cutting must be difficult because they also cautioned mechanics to be careful and be sure to observe the fan balance when cutting the excess length.

Kev, you've seen what I had to do on my dad's '38. My problem was the opposite though, with way too much space between the engine and the radiator. I used a Flex-a-lite fan and variable speed controller. Worked great. Behind the radiator would work best, otherwise you will have a lot of the radiator covered by the fan motor and shroud on the front. Those areas of the radiator will have no airflow. Putting it on the rear of the radiator will allow the entire front to be open to air and better cooling.

I can take measurements on the depth of my fan if that helps.





It works great. I can't hear from the inside of the car, and not much on the outside when the engine is running. I have it set to keep the engine cool at 170 and so far has done a fantastic job maintaining a constant temp.