Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I recently bought a 53 packard clipper and am hopeing to turn it into my daily driver. i'm a newby to the site and too 12 volt conversions, so any information on the subject would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance..

There is not a simple or single how to do it article on site here. Use the search box at upper right and search for 12v conversion. There are quite a few things to consider and some pitfalls but it can be done if you are not worried about authenticity and just want modern convenience. There are many threads on one aspect or another but just about everything is covered. You might also check out Big Kev's blog as he is doing just that on his 54. You'll have to skim thru as pieces are mixed in as he progresses.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=57&forum=10

One site does have a printed guide for sale but I have not read it and am sure it duplicates most of what has been discussed here.http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/parts/index.html

cool, thank you. information on packards is pretty sparse on the internet, it's nice to have a site like this and people with first hand experience. i'll be registering in the "packard owner registry" and uploading pics and project progression. thanks again..

Here is the short list of what you will need:

-12v battery ($65)
-New Starter Solenoid (12v) ($30)
-New Horn Relay (12v) (will also need to adjust the horn pitch) ($15)
-Replace every light bulb ($70)
-New Coil (12v) ($15)
-Ballast Resistor (same as the 55/56 Packards) ($15)
-The gauges will be fine with the stock instrument voltage regulator
-You will need a voltage step down resistor for the clock (see my blog on how to do this) ($5)
-Radio, you will need to convert the radio to 12v, or you will fry it. ($150)
-Fresh Air blower, you will need to get a motor voltage step down resistor, or get the blower motor out of a 55/56. This is what I did. ($20-$50)
-Replace generator with an alternator ($75). Use a 3-wire GM 10SI alternator if you want the GEN light to work on the dash board.
-Fab up a lower alternator bracket. Top generator bracket can be reused with a spacer and a longer bolt. ($10)

Total around $500. All of this is covered in some detail on my car and should be just all you need if the existing 6v harness is in good shape. If you use a 12v aftermarket harness figure about $175 for a decent harness and about another $50-75 in terminals, tape, heat shrink tubing and wire ties.

Quote:G'day 53clipper,
to PackardInfo. And you've beaten me to the !!! Looking forward to seeing your '53 Clipper in the Packard Owner's Registry.

I have a 40 Chrysler straight eight and it runs and starts fine with 6v. Unless you want to add modern electrical/electronic equipment I would leave it the way it is, The only reason I would ever convert to 12v negative ground would be to add air conditioning.

When I bought my 53 Clipper someone had basically just stuck a 12 volt battery in it. All the lights bulbs were shot, I think the instrument voltage regulator was shot, and the points were burning with regularity and had to be cleaned almost every time before the car could be started. So that is not how to do it. I decided to switch it back to 6 volt because it was less expensive and more authentic. But before I decided I checked with Five Avenue Internet Garage mentioned here by HH56. I have read his book and it was helpful to me to me to put mine back in order for 6 volt and I expect it would be similarly helpful to those converting theirs to 12 volt. Fifth Avenue also has voltage reducers and such to help with the project. Based on what I have read, perhaps I am overly cautious, but I would reduce the voltage to the gauges as well. Not sure I would want to rely on that ancient instrument voltage regulator and would not want to risk having to rebuild or replace those gauges. But, as I said, I am very cautious. Best of luck!
Ken

The instrument voltage regulator that is in the 51-54 cars (6v) is the same the 55/56 models (12v). This same part number was used into the 70s on many ford cars as all their gauges were also 5v.

All I know is that my instrument voltage regulator was defective. I stand by my experience with my car. If it happened to me, it could happen to someone else.
Ken

The Runzt solid state type regulator many sell wouldn't hurt--although it would take one per gauge. Downside of those are expense and although the prices seem to be all over, generally $15-20 ea. Also require neg ground. Doing a conversion, expect you are headed in that direction anyway. Assuming ground not being an issue, then unless someone accidentally hooks up the battery backward thinking the car is still pos ground and they don't survive, maybe worth looking into.

The original voltage regulator is mechanical and like anything mechanical and 60 yrs old, possibly showing age. If the contacts stick, it is all over and it is find another gauge time. That can happen on any car that uses that type of regulator. Of course, the same happens if the IC on the Runtz shorts.