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Joe, This is Evan from Grain-It. I wanted to touch base with you on your 40 Packard Packard Super 8 Convertible Sedan.
First of all I really like your Packard and I can't wait to see the Duchess restored!

J.D. has posted some of documentation on the 1940 Packard.

The first photo is Packard Factory information from 1940 on woodgrain and Tenite.

It shows the Mottled Aspen ( very early Production before Nov. 1939 )This woodgrain uses DuPont Chroma-base LS120 base color, Mottled Aspen woodgraining plate and driftwood ink.

The Sepele ( also refered to as Sapel or saple Mahogany )
Was offered in two different tones.
The top left is the one that is most common for your 160, it is Sepele With DuPont Chroma-Base YS 227 base color, Sepele woodgraining plate and Carpathian Elm ink.


The second tone/color is almost a silver/Grey Sepele with driftwood ink.
I have only restored one like this.

In the photos that follow we have a dash piece woodgrained by us in the darker Sepele and an original piece showing original Sepele woodgrain that was protected under the chrome.

The last photo is an early Mottled Aspen dash with original woodgrain. We prepared a sample (shown in center of photo) before we striped the dash for restoration.

We want to help you in your woodgrain restoration to make sure you have all the information you need to accurately restore your Packard.

My question is in your photos: dashjpeg and dashpiecejpeg
are these photos of the original dash that came out of your car? The reason I ask is that those photos show the darker Sepele woodgrain on them. If this dash is original to your car the Mottled Aspen would not be the corect woodgrain for your Packard. Is the dash out of another 1940 Packard possibly a later model? This would explain the difference in woodgrain. Either way we are happy to assist you however we can. I think I remember talking to you when you ordered your tools. If you find you need the Sepele woodgraining plate For The Duchess I can help you out.

Sincearly,

Evan Westlake
Grain-It TechnologiesMore woodgrain info

Very helpful, Evan and JDee.
My car was sold on announcement day, August 18 or 20, 1939. The original was identical to the black and white photo of the woman in the hat. The original dashboard was modified by the chauffeur of the original owner to install an instrument where the radio would go. A hole was cut in it. The mottled chocolate plastic was badly corroded except for a few knobs, probably from UV exposure. It's a convertible after all.

I had a 120 dash and had it painted a solid color and used that for years. No woodgrain.

My friend Vaughn found a complete 160 dash with excellent beige plastic. This apparently came from a car after the change to Sapele Mahogany. BUT TO ME it looked like the original woodgrain I remembered from 1960, so I thought that's what I should match. I remember calling about what to do after sending the picture of the replacement dash. As a result, my kit has a Mottled Aspen plate, which is correct for my car, Carpathian Elm and Light Walnut inks. Maybe I have two inks because we weren't sure at the time, so you sent an alternative.

Tonight I'll check the basecoat color. It should be LS120, I see that now, but I suspect I have YS227 instead. And I should have Driftwood ink instead of the other two.

Thanks so much for clearing this up. If I ever get to be a judge, I'll be dangerous.

Joe,
Just let us know what you need and we will take care of it.
Evan

Thanks, Evan,
Here's what I have
Mottled Aspen plate
7175S 1 quart Basemaker Mid-Temp
1 pint of Chromabase YS238 (marked on can and on Grain-It invoice) Spectra Master

I have Light Brown Walnut Ink GC-4 and
Carpathian Elm Ink GC-3 (which you sent no charge to help get the color right)

So I will need new base coat paint LS-120, is that Lesonol instead of chromabase?

And Driftwood ink.

Now I'm going to suggest something contrary to the point of this entire discussion. I'm going to urethane the windshield moulding I woodgrained the other night. If it looks fabulous, and is harmonious with the rest of the interior, I may stay with it. If it looks like I need to do the whole thing over anyway, then I'd like to exchange by 2 inks for the Driftwood and I'll get the LS-120 basecoat paint and start over. I did some more sanding on the rest of the moulding, so I am priming them again tonight, so no big loss here.

I will keep you posted and when I set up to continue woodgraining, I'll send pix of my set up so you can advise.

Thanks, This is very helpful,
Joe

Quote:


Please forgive me for butting in, Joe.
I have to say, this is a level of dialog and customer service I have not witnessed in years!

I too have a '40 160 convertible sedan, contrary to Joe's, a very late production one. Rest assured, this spontaneous & respectful offering of advice and help will secure my patronage when the time comes, and doubtless referrals in the mean time.

Thank you, Evan for restoring my faith in our vendors, and please allow me to welcome you to Packard Info!

Jim

Evan and Jdee, a very warm to PackardInfo. Your advice and willingness to contribute is thoroughly appreciated. Pity there aren't more of the same ilk, as Jim says it helps people on both sides of the ledger.

Joe,
The Duchess is looking fantastic. I don't mean to hijack your thread but seeing how Jdee and Evan are here perhaps I could get a question answered about interior treatments. If Kev wants to move it to a new topic, fine.

I would also like to add my thanks to Jdee and Evan for their gracious input and advice.

What would this dash and trim molding treatment be called on a 1953 Derham Formal Sedan? Is it a graining treatment or a paint mixture?

Thanks.

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Hi, That looks to be the Goat Skin Pattern.
I have seen that in a greenish blue color also.
Thanks Jdee

PS: there is a little photo of the pattern at this link.
http://www.woodgraining.com/Patterns/

I've also seen the goatskin paint pattern in gray.

WET SANDING MOULDING IN THE SHOWER I never learned multi-tasking until I found myself living alone. I don't go from the bedroom directly to the garage without picking up and dropping off a load of laundry now.

So yes, took my windshield moulding into the shower with some wet/dry 1200 this morning. Will get some 2000 today as instructed, but I didn't do a perfect job of spraying the urethane last night and there were bumps to remove. Also when I closed the garage door something showed up in the radar and it reversed itself. One of the wire hangers I attached to the door caught the metal sawhorse and dumped the half-dry moulding on the floor. But I was in experiment mode, so not that concerned, and I've said all along Reserving Judgement until final result.

Well guess what? Result PDG. If the window rubber shows up today, I'll stop by the shop and see how harmonious the color is with the interior taupe, the blackhawk gray and the upholstery. But at this moment, as many mistakes as I made, as much as I lack technique at this point (none, but getting better), the process is very forgiving. I know I can do a good job of this moving forward.

As you may remember, the reason for starting with the window moulding was at the request of the glass company. I don't think they need it, but in the interest of not frustrating them, I'll have it there. Then when they are done I'll either touch it up or redo the moulding as it is or with the LS120 lighter color. A pint of basecoat is not enough anyway, so I'll need more...not enough for a beginner, at least.

Hats off to you JDee and Evan.

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