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Many, many months ago now I posted a concern with respect to lifting my Packard after newly refinishing the chrome. (Can't find post; sorry) PackardV8 (Keith) suggested a scissor-jack and since I've looked for similar on ebay and vendors.

A couple of days ago I took delivery of the jack seen in the pictures. It will know be the jack I carry in the trunk as I drive the roads of southern Arizona. I wanted to share it so others could consider it if the are so inclined.

I purchased it for $39.99 via plus shipping via www.northerntool.com

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When I was overseas the military had some really great scissor jacks for use with heavy vehicles like the HMMV.

I bought one surplus on ebay for fifty bucks.

Tim Cole........please post a picture of that jack.

The screw jacks are decent because they are low and secure. This powered unit is one that I had been seriously considering for the occasions when AAA is not handy.http://www.mygaragestore.com/detail.aspx?ID=1752 Downside is that it is 12v so that leaves lots of people without the option and it has mixed reviews. Maybe there are other heavy lift options for those few of us who are athletically challenged.

My Ranger has a slightly smaller screw jack than the one you show. Used it once & it was a royal pain and plenty of work even to lift that small pickup. I'm not sure how one like it (or I) would fare on the much heavier Packard. Yours looks longer, so hopefully the one from Northern Tool has a better ratio than the Ford unit.

HMMWV jack and others, including a hydraulic scissors design:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMMER-H1-HUMVEE-M998-HMMWV-SCISSORS-JACK-5120013750070-5939822-3-5-TON-/190592844531

http://www.amazon.com/Scissor-Jack-3-5-Tons-5939822L/dp/B005JS6A98

http://www.palmside.co.nz/product_pcid_15517.html

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Scissor-Jack-Auto-Lift/dp/B0046C60B6

I drive my 54 Packard Cavalier in Phoenix Arizona and have fear-Factor that I may have to change a rear tire out on the road

I have never tried the original bumper jack (on my new chrome) but when I replaced the rear tires I had a difficult time getting it high enough off the ground to let the rear wheels drop far enough below the rear fender.

I finally used a small floor jack under the frame in front of the rear wheel with a couple of blocks.

Soooo does this jack you show lift high enough all by itself and did you need to attach a bracket to keep it secure under the frame?

And where do you place the jack for the rear wheels?

Jim

In my youth, I had a few friends with late-60s Ford product as their first car. They all came from the factory with scissor-type jacks, and I saw more than one of them fold up like a cheap suitcase.

This Torin unit looks a bit sturdier. Yet, even using at least one wheel chock, I don't see how you're gonna keep the vehicle frame from slipping off the saddle, as designed. Imagine changing a tire along the highway, when along comes one big gust of wind from a semi pssing by.

Obvious solution, in this particular case, is to drill a hole in the flat of the frame to make use of that bult-in pin on the jack, but you better choose the right spot the first time - lest your frame end up looking like swiss cheese. Not all scissor jacks have that pin; some are designed to fit a pinchweld flange - as found on unit-body type construction of much lighter, modern vehicles.

For emergency/roadside use with these Packards, the best alternative to a bumper jack that I've ever seen was Randy Berger's adaptation of the side-lift jack that came with full GM size-cars, like the Chevy Caprice, back in the 1980s.

I kinda wrinkled my nose when GM first introduced that design, but it's actually quite sturdy and reasonably sized. As with the bumper jack that it replaced, the lug wrench doubles as the jack handle. IIRC, it has a greater lifting range than a compact floor jack.

I bought a small Delco 2-ton floor-type jack to use on the road. It fits easily in the trunk, much smaller than a regular size shop jack. I hope I never have to use it. I'll post a photo tomorrow. Probably the best tool to use is a AAA card.

(o[]o)

Edit: Here is a photo of the trolly jack and wheel chocks. There is also a folding cross type wheel wrench.

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Here is the link to a pic of mine. NOTE that it has a REDUCTION gear (actualy chain drive).

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=4854&forum=3&post_id=52804#forumpost52804

Kevin AZ. Be sure to test the new jack u bought. Test it both front (heavy end of car) and rear (has to raise real high). A good idea is to carry a rather heavy flat piece of steel about 1/8 inch thick at least 8"x8" or therabouts or more incase jack has to be used on a dirt surface.

Check the screw threads on the new jack. If they are dry put a lite coat of grease on the the threads and the hinge points, wrap in a old shirt and put it in a lite cardboard box.

thE GM jack that BH recommends mite be a good idea too.

I like the reduction gear scizzors jack because under lite or no load it raises fast on the 1:1 drive.

Some 3 years ago or so Owen Dyneto started a thread about carrying spare parts and tools in the trunk. Very good thread. Haven't been able to find it.

That thread PRobably needs to be indexed or something for ez reference. There is nothing worse than getting caught on the side of the road for the want of a simple cheap small item and not having it.