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My most recent Packard project is restoration of the electric/hydraulic windows, 5472 Sedan. I am about to begin reassembly with new window glass, hoses and cylinders *Hydro-E-Lectric, FL. Anyone who has attempted Packard Hydro-E system repair I would like to hear from. This is a very intensive project--stop and restore as you go.

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About all I can offer, which you probably already know, is that there are separate wiring diagrams for the hydraulic systems (convertibles, hardtops & sedans) in the 1954 Service Counselor, Vol 28 No. 4, of April 1954.

Good luck, not a trivial job!

Just a distaff view: get a set of electric lifts from a streetrod supplier and put them in. You will end up spending far less money and time, and 15 years from now when the cylinder/tubes/hoses/pump would need redoing again, you will just be smiling.

"original" is too ephemeral and subjective a concept to be worth the trouble in a mass produced sedan. But it is, after all, your dime. I am pretty sure you could buy a good 54 driver sedan for the cost of a complete power window redo at normal shop rates. Just an opinion.

Ross makes a good point but if you're keeping 6 volts there are not many electric options other than finding some old Chrysler or Ford systems to modify. Don't believe any of the aftermarket units are available in 6v.

A couple of things I found when doing a 54 with hydro windows some 15 years ago. The pressure spec is important against the huge springs. If the pump is the least bit worn, it may not be able to deliver so a go thru isn't a bad idea. If you are using Hydro's services and repro cylinders, hopefully they will have a recommendation as to fluid. Some articles at the time recommended silicone fluid or ATF to protect the door bottom paint from inevitable leaks. I'd be concerned about the silicone being too watery to develop adequate pressure if pump is worn but the ATF might work. I stuck with regular brake fluid as Packard spec'd.

If anyone has tried either silicone or ATF, might be nice to have a first hand report.The repro cylinders available then didn't hold up well and when I last saw the car a couple of years ago the paint had blistered at the bottom of one door. Current owner said it had leaked so in hindsight, trying one of the other fluids might have been a good idea.

Another thing is Packard detailed documentation is somewhat sparse. Generic though it may be, here's a few pages from an old Motor's manual which might fill in some blanks on the pump. Packard used the Dura pump.

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i have used hydraulic jack oil in two cars, seams to work well, also went to a hydraulic line shop (forklifts and others) and bought high pressure plastic line to replace the steel line and rubber hoses. if you have ever had the lines under the carpet rust out as i did on my 53 you know what a mess you get plus new carpets. also the flexible lines are a snap to replace the old steel lines on a convertible. wonderful to get rid of the snake nest under the back seat. the fittings are a little expensive but well worth it. dell

I did a 42 that had been converted to bombay door lifts from a B-52. They were a disaster. The owner junked a whole Chrysler car for the electrics, and a 120 for the regulators.

Using the low-rider route might work better these days, and keep in mind that you can retain the 6-volt system if you use two batteries in series with a cutout to charge each battery separately.

Of course I would try to retain the original unless they are not servicable and are totally shot.

Thanks for all input on this project. So far I have used all Packard service manual wiring diagrams to reconnect hydro-e wires (same 51-54); pump was rebuilt back in the 80's and never used; have all new cylinders and hoses from Hydro-E in FL; plans are to stay with everything original until a different reason arises. I am pondering the situation of the double hose extending from door, to door sill at all doors. This appears to be an insulator hose, one side for electric wires, the other for hose carrying pump fluid (GM-ATF). Question to self, which is more important, to insulate the elecrics or the new hoses. In the attached photos it can be seen where the double hose went from door to frame insulating both hose and electric wires. The new hose from Hydro-E will not fit into a 5/8 replacement so 3/4 is needed for that. Therefore, 5/8 insulator and 3/4 insulator side-by-side will not both fit through the opening at the door and frame. One of the metal lines for a back door will be replaced with 59" length of hose since the original metal lines was rusted through in 4 places!! Don't think anyone will notice a slight rise in the carpet in back.

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I think it is equally important to protect both electrical and hydraulic hose. Don't remember which side the dual conduit is attached but it does slide so it is absorbing some abrasion. As I recall, the wires and hose also do a bit of sliding inside the conduit.

One possibility if Hydro will take the hoses back is to buy lightweight SAE hose from McMaster-Carr or another supplier and have them made again. Don't remember the ID of needed hoses but if 1/4 or 5/16, looks like that product might fit inside the conduit.

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Hi and thanks for input: I am working @ using the 3/4" heater hose to insulate the new hose all the way inside the door pillar and secure it; thus when door is open, in the space between door and frame you would see the 3/4 hose and the electric lines which are already taped tgether with electrical tape. THEN, inside the door, out of sight I would slip the elecrical wires through the 5/8 heater hose and secure it to the 3/4 hose containing the new fluid hose, and somehow secure both to the inside of the door. Then go back and tape together the 3/4 hose and taped electrical lines in the space between door and frame. That's as close as I can come to the original setup.

I'd test the sliding action with the larger hose before committing. It does have to move freely otherwise the door in closing will try and bend the conduit sharply. If not a bend, then a bind and you will always be reaching down to free it.

The electrical has a permanent hot wire to each door in the bunch so protect it well at all costs. That would be one thing I'd consider changing if doing one again. Add a relay controlled by ign key so the window circuit is dead when key is off. Packard finally did that in the V8 cars.