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Then there is the rear main seal....
#1
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patgreen
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My car is slowly repaving the garage with a non rusting formulation of oil....

In short, the rear main seal needs to be either replaved or possibly cemented shut.

I have the seal from Jack Vines and a pan gasket.
In the flat rate book it calls for 10.6 hours and includes removing the flywheel and dropping the trans and the crankshaft. Seems staggering.

The new seal seems to be split, and looks like it should be relatively simpler????

Any light you can shed on this, (particularly if the area of practical experience) would be most appreciated...

Posted on: 2013/5/3 20:42
When two men ride the same horse, one has to be in the back...
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Re: Then there is the rear main seal....
#2
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Ozstatman
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Although not for a V8, this thread is similar, may be of assistance?

Posted on: 2013/5/3 22:21
Mal
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====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

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Re: Then there is the rear main seal....
#3
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Larry51
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You probably knew this but . . . . the 288 straight eights can have the main seal replaced with engine in situ. This is done by "simply" removing the sump and partially lowering the crankshaft. (Full instructions are provided in the 48-54 Workshop Manual). I don't know if your V8 has a rope seal or not but please read on if it does. The 10.6 hours may be time required if engine is 'in situ' (with flywheel removed and sump dropped).

Today I just posted asking for ideas and opinions on replacing the rope seal in my 288. Based on my experience at present I question just how easily a seal can be replaced with engine 'in situ'. It could be quite difficult getting the seal correctly positioned using this method. Will be interesting to hear from anyone who has done it.

Posted on: 2013/5/3 22:43
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Re: Then there is the rear main seal....
#4
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Tim Cole
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Another quick and dirty method is to make up a dowel that allows more material to be crammed in there. That is you use the dowel to compress the existing material and then shove some more in there with sealer.

Also make sure the drain isn't plugged with sludge.

Hope this helps.

Posted on: 2013/5/4 5:39
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