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Reinstalling the head studs in the 282".
I'm hopefully reusing the ones that were removed, they were cadnium plated .
I've replaced individual studs before, but never a complete set ( 29). I'd like to keep them at an equal height and have read a number of ways of installing them.
The " Service Counselor" just mentions use of sealant & the square end, but nothing about height or torque on stud ?
Suggestions please . . .
I'd just like them to be realatively even appearing & of course have a good seal for head.
Thanks,
Dave

In order to get a positive seal to the water jacket you need to screw them into the block until all the thread is in the block, i.e. there is no thread left exposed and the stud has "bottomed out" against the block. I use Indian Head shellac as a sealant, can't say I've ever had a leaker.

If you're concerned that one might be a bit taller than the others, just lay them on a table and compare the lengths that will protrude from the block.

As to how tight, I never looked for a spec, I use a standard stud installer with a 10" long 1/2" drive socket drive and just go until they are firmly planted; if I had to guess, maybe 25 lb-ft. but certainly nothing more than that.

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They also make a stud remover & installer that is the style of a collet.It is a lot more costly but screws down on the threads and then clamps to them.That way no gouging the stud or marring the threads.

Cool tool. I need one. OD that KD unit have a part number??

While it may not be a KD - try your local Napa dealer.

The one I pictured is a KD-1708; there is another KD style with the knurled wheel at the base rather than in the center - it's specifically for broken studs that just a small portion remaining. In either case make sure you place it so the knurled wheel is on the shank of the stud and not on the threads.

I've learned the hard way to be sure it's a trusted tool name brand like KD, SK, Snap-on, etc. Like everything, you pay for what you get or get what you pay for. Good ones have hardened serrations and a decent strength pin. Unfortunately there are knockoffs made of fairly soft metal under the pretty chrome and knurling being sold under "house" brands.

Given your direction in posting # 6, how does one avoid injuring the threads as the threads approach the surface of the deck or material they are being installed into? Or maybe the threads do not extend fully into the material?

Just let the tool grasp the stud in the non-threaded section.

Sears also has that KD style of tool.