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what would be the best or easiest way to remove the head studs from the block?

A stud remover tool should make the job pretty easy. They come in a variety of shapes and most utilize a grip on the unthreaded shank of the stud by a knurled wheel jammed against it. I been using a K-D stud remover for decades, an excellent, very robust tool, need a picture? Or just Google stud remover tool.

The same tool is also used to install studs.

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thank you Owen, it is ordered from amazon, here in two days

Sometimes studs can removed by double nutting them.

Always put a nut on them and wacked with a hammer to try to break them loose. And there is always the blue wrench ( torch to heat the block)
Good Luck
W

I use these to remove them. They are sized by the diameter of the stud and use rollers and wedge to grip the stud and don't leave the marks of the other style.

I would only heat the studs themselves and use plenty of your favorite penetrating oil, mine's Kroil. (Kano Labs, Nashville, TN) As an addition or alternative, get dry ice. Grocery stores have it around here. Pack it around the stud and let it freeze. (Use gloves because it will cause burns quickly. Theory is to have it go thru expansion(heat) and contraction (freeze) cycles to loosen it's grip.

As mentioned a good rap on the top helps, just be sure you have a nut on it flush with the top of the stud to prevent damage to the threads and stud.

You might consider using a torque wrench to avoid over stressing the stud, they are not fun to drill out.

Below is a chart location (there are others) that will give you an idea of how much torque was used to install them. For example, if a 1/2" stud was torqued to 75# initially, you may not want to exceed, say 100, before stopping and trying some of the above again.

Good luck, now if I can just get my piston out.

aztecbolting.com/sites/default/files/AztecBolting_TorqueEstimatingChart.pdf

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Short story of a head stud.

Back in the 1970's I had a Model A Ford Coupe. Upon removing the head to replace the gasket the stud in front broke off flush with the top of the block.

Good friend say drill it out and use an Easy-Out (easy-peasy).

So applying some torque I succeeded in snapping the easy-out off. in the stud.

Easy-out's are hardened and don't drill out.

We ended up towing the now powerless coupe down to a guy who used a torch to burn the easy-out out of the stud and succeeded in removing the stud and saved the threads in the block.

It was discovered that the hole in the block was drilled at a slight angle and the original stud had been tipped vertical causing a slight crack.

I assume Ford made the block.

Jim

Suggestions all good. Little trick ive pick up over the years is to give rusted nuts/bolts/studs a slight clockwise turn before the counter.

Head studs have interference fit. Even if factory fresh their going to come out hard.

machinedesign.com/fastening-joining/article/21812743/studs

Pretty sure reasonings are
-Nuts would break loose first
-Factory could drive the Studs to the height they required
-Some studs go into water champers and the interference would help seal.

WASH YOUR HANDS