Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

I would get a lot blow by with 10-30 on my aging '54 motor. That pretty much went away when I switched to 15-40.

Thanks for the input. I wondered if the MMO was partly to blame, but I figured it would have dissolved fairly evenly once in the fuel tank. Maybe not though. I suppose it could've sat at the bottom of the tank and gotten sucked up first.

I didn't consider the 10w-30 possibly being an issue. I'll watch it for a while and see if it continues. If so I'll go back to 15w-40. I didn't have much if any issue while I was running that. Some, but not like today.

Regarding Rotella and Delo, I'm not sure what the formulation is as of right now. It's possible that it changed within the last few years. That information is hard to find online, and who knows if the sources are reliable. If my guys at Napa are right then it seems they have removed most of the zinc with the last few years.

I don't know about a century old can but I do have a couple from the '70s or '80s made by Mobil that had graphite. I mentioned it before on another post but when I put it in along with multi-tip plugs from JC Whitney into my 1954 Patrician, as the oil worked its way in I had to keep tweaking down the idle speed and mileage greatly improved. The problem was that the oil was black so hard to tell when it needed changing.

These guys are still selling graphite oil 🤔

https://xenum.com/home/products/oils/engine/graphite-oil/gp-10w40/

Good to know and I may even try some!

Quote:

Interesting....but it's only sold in Europe. Probably not cost effective.

Curious they say 3-5% friction reduction. I would assume that's tested in a modern engine. Probably a lot better in a classic engine to cut down on the piston friction.

Yeah I doubt it's really worth it, but could be interesting.

Was going to drive the Panama today to work, but I ran into the same no-start electrical issue I've been dealing with before. Ground cable hooked back up to the battery, nice and tight. Single loud click when turning the key, then all electrical is lost (no lights, etc). I can see the battery from inside the car when I start, and whenever it clicks like this there is a spark at the positive ground terminal. I thought I was just dealing with a dirty terminal and poor connection, but now I'm not so sure.

When I got the car running the lights (interior and exterior) were flickering non-stop when they were on. Didn't find anything about it in the electrical section of the Service Manual. What's causing this?

-Kevin

If it only happens when you try to start, then the Solenoid or starter is shorting and taking all the "juice" with it.

If you have lights and everything when just in the "ON" position, then it has to be in the starter/solenoid.

When it goes is next see if any of the starter terminals are suddenly warm/hot.

Quote:

Cleaned up the post and terminal, reinstalled the cable, and she started up within a single revolution. No flickering on the lights now either. So, maybe it was just a corroded connection? I would think that if it was a short in the solenoid or starter that it would be that way all the time.

I really need to get a cut off switch that can handle 6 volt applications. I'd rather not be removing the ground cable every time I'm done driving.