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Latest attempt at a battery cut off switch

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My latest attempt.
The Battery Brain III I bought from Bill Hirsch just didn't work out. I was for 6 volt, but I don't think it adapts well to positive ground. ( A couple of buck down the tubes!)

I used the parts that came with the brain to adapt a simple battery cut off switch. On one end of the switch a flat metal
bar connects the switch to a battery terminal. The other side has a 90 degree bend and a metal battery post connected to it. I have never seen these parts for sale, but I guess you could make them if you were handier then me.

The switch is from Harbor Freight (about $10) and I used a bolt extender from ACO ($1.55) to connect the switch to the top of the battery hold down rod.

PROS: Not a lot more investment after buying the Battery Brain.
No modifications to the car, and I can take it back off in a few minutes.
It's easy to use in a place easy to reach.
It does what I want, disconnect the battery for safety and to work on the car.

CONS: I have to open the hood to get to it.
It's probably not the most attractive set up that you have seen.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Am sorry to hear the battery brain didn't work out. Was there a specific problem or just overall didn't work as advertised. Am curious if something could be changed to make it work better or overcome the deficiencies.

Unfortunately, it appears nothing much is available for 6v remote control operation--at least I haven't found anything else. Just like air conditioning, 12v has a lot of options and 6v next to none.

For those who have 12v, Watson's Streetworks has several solenoid setups with different actuating methods that looks promising--made for the streetrod crowd . A little pricy though if you want the remote fob because that setup is separate.

Been a while since I've been under those fenders. Not practical to use a Cole-Hersee type switch which can be reached from the fenderwell?

Just a comment based on experience. With all those extra connections the starter motor will run on reduced voltage, depending on the material conductivity, size, and surface condition of each contact. If the extra voltage drop caused by the added connections and extra parts gets too high you will experience slow cranking and difficult starting. The battery has a fixed voltage and any resistance in the cables and connections reduces it from there.

When I want to disconnect the battery for safety while working on the car I just unbolt the ground clamp from the battery post.

I just purchased a knife switch type battery disconnect switch-Wirth I think-but got it from Amazon for about $20. It works so far very good. I was using the disconnect cable from battery-problem is it sometimes resulted in a loose connection which caused the car to quit. With this switch I have been able to bolt everything down tight. I also tried the green knob switch-not very good. The disadvantage with the knife switch is you have to open the hood or at least paritially.

Any switch you install should have at least the same current-carrying capacity as your primary battery cables. The "green knob" jobs barely have enough contact area for a 12-volt car and no where near enough for 6-volt. The best of all still remains (IMO) the Cole-Hersee rotary switch which is more than ample even for 6-volt systems with long runs of cable where the battery can be below the rear seat.

Installation should always be on the grounded cable. For batteries under the front seat or rear seat, an inside installation is very simple and convenient but I can appreciate the problem with underhood batteries; I open my hood of the Carib at least twice for each car use and that gets very old quite quickly. I've yet to find a good convenient location for these. I have seen cases where folks break the hot cable and mount the switch on the cowl with the handle inside above the gas pedal - still not very convenient and dangerous as well. Seems we still need a good idea for this.

They do make "racing style" cut-off switches that are designed to be mounted through a body panel. You could mount it through the firewall and have reachable from under the dash. This would let you cut it off from inside the car.

Or as Dave suggested through the inner fender and reachable through the wheel well.

Some even have a removable key/handle which can help with security.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-1032/

Most marine and RV suppliers offer a variety of shut off switches rated for sufficient amps. I agree that it should be connected to the grounded cable and could probably be hidden in a fender well or on the firewall with access from inside. Here are a few:


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CON4MA/ref=asc_df_B000CON4MA1207949?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextag-auto-delta-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B000CON4MA

http://boatingsavings.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/Perko-Battery-Disconnect-Switch.aspx?a=621911&kwtid=513952&pm2d=CSE-BSV-5-NEXTAG

http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=30785&SID=20&DID=131&CID=317

In the past have purchased my Cole-Hersee battery cut-off switches from ElecDirect.com. They have a good selection of switches and other electrical gear. Recently, I have noticed that a local alternator and starter shop also stocks them. Support your local merchant.

(o{I}o)