Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Vintage41, you're showing your age as being of the disc brake era.

Not that we didn't understand, but they are drums, not rotors, and shoes, not pads. Glad to hear the job was completed successfully.

The linings cracked from the brake shoes, Both driverside and passenger front had cracks in the linings, they look very old. My car has drums all the way around, to be honest whom ever owned my car before did things half effort so I'm having to go back over so much, but it will get there....



Warm Regards

Packard 41, I had the same problem with my 55 400, the front shoe linings were cracked and crumbling I suspect through age and little use. They were still pretty close to the original lining thickness (see picture). I couldn't get replacements here so I had them refurbished with bonded linings and they came back like new. This was an easier, quicker and cheaper option for me than purchasing new ones from the states with also paying shipping which seems to have got a lot more expensive lately sometimes more than the original cost of the item depending on what it is.
I now have to revisit the rear drums when I can find a hub puller that's up to the job.
Regards,
Dave UK.

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That looks exactly like mine did... I did the wheel bearings as well... I just feel better knowing everything is new... On to the next project... frontend parts

Hi folks. I have come to this discussion a bit late due to struggle with ancient Mac running system 9.
The problem with striking the end of the hub puller is that on Junior cars 16th Series thru 19th series there is a hardened steel spacing block between the two axle shafts and in the centre of the Diff unit. Striking the end of the puller can transmit the shock to this spacer and shatter it, it is unlikely to do the taper roller bearings harm, I think in general use when things like cornering at speed or hitting kerbs a lot more strain is put on them.
The thrust block is shown on page 36 of the 38/39 Shop Manual and also in a January '38 seserviceetter.
As there is no '41 Shop Manual I think they should have mentioned this in the '41 Owners handbook but they didn't.
I do not think that Super Eights and Twelves had this arrangement
but cannot be sure.
Having run my '41 120 sedan for 45 years thats all I know about and yes, you do need a king-sized puller to get the rear hubs off.
I have in the past hammered the thing as tight as I could get it and left it for a couple of days - I think the hub popped off sometime in the night!!
Keep at it , persistance pays off in the end.

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The 20th and 21st series Super and Custom Clippers differentials have a spacer block. This design may apply to the junior models as well. One should be careful about the kind and amount of force that is applied when removing parts.

(o{I}o)

There have been many cautionary words posted over the months about striking the end of the puller lest one damage the thrust block. As I have siad before I've seen trained mechanics including ones at Packard delaers strike the end of a puller without causing damage and I have done so myself.

Thsi is at best interestin but certainly does not prove that damage does not occur. I decided to use 40 years of data to see what I could find out. there are two basic blocks used form '35 120 up to '54.

323133 120, then Customs ans senior to '54

360401 '40 110 and smaller cars up to '54 3 sold ever

Based on the sales of 3 in 40 years I'd conclude that there is no problem, bang away

Stuart12041 says: I do not think that Super Eights and Twelves had this arrangement but cannot be sure.

The prewar Senior cars from the onset of the Angelset (hypoid) rear axle up thru at least 1937 (not sure of the 38-39 Super 8 and 39 Twelve) did not use a thrust block or spacer but rather used a set of two, opposed-facing tapered roller bearings on each axle end to set and limit axle movement. Axle shaft free play on them is set by adding/subracting shims behind the inside race, doing each axle shaft individually (when doing end play on axles with a thrust or spacer block, they are set as a pair).

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Hi all:

I agree with Fred.

The Packard Manual states "do not HAMMER on the end of the axle" or damage to the thrust block may result. This does not preclude tapping the end of the axle. You can also use a bar to pull outward through the puller to prevent any possible damage.

Using a sledge to beat on the end of the axle is not good.

For really stubborn cases heating the drum while under puller tension is very safe.

For cars that are roadworthy loosening the axle nut a few flats, re-inserting the cotter, and driving around the block is one method that has been recommended.

I like the leaving it sit under stress method but that doesn't work in a production shop.

For those of you who have left your rear drums under stress, i.e., letting the drum puller sit for a while, putting outward pressure on the recalcitrant drum; how long do you wait to let the pressure from the drum puller do its work? I've had the drum puller on the rear hub of my '55 patrician for more than a day and it is still firmly attached to the rear axle. I gave the T-handle a few additional whacks this evening and hit the end with PB Blaster and am giving it another 24-hours. Any other suggestions, other than using a larger hammer to hit the T-handle?