Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

After twenty something years on the road with the 1940, wanted to freshen up the rear suspension. Wanted to get the latest advice. I know a couple of the rear shock links will need to be repaired. The rubber doughnut parts no longer insulate the metal parts from each other. Best thing to do is Max Merritt exchange, try to find nos, home brew fix, etc.?
The leaf springs had apart many years ago, and noticed at that time a few leaf spacers were missing, or totally worn out. Can't remember exactly what I did, but think on a few of them put in small rubber grommets, knowing they would wear out quickly, being driven only occasionally might take awhile. In one of the Packard parts books it talks about the spacers that should be used. Are these available? Are they necessary? Fixes?
And lastly the rubber needs replacing on the square shaped clamps that hold the spring leafs in line. The rubber is U shaped with the bottom of the U flat with a ridge to hold the rubber inside the bracket. Made by someone?
Thanks. Todd

I am going to refresh my rear springs on my '40. I plan to disconnect them after we have the transmission and clutch out. I've never done it.

I have one spring (left side) with a leaf that popped its rivet.

There is a place in Portland that specializes on refurbishing them, so I will take both there and then reinstall. I will need advice about removing them and this thread looks like a good place to get it.

Here of some 1940 160 springs.

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I only have a little to offer as I'm not yet done with mine. I don't have anything on the rubber for the brackets yet. But, the sliders/silencers in between the springs.... Eaton Detroit sells Delrin spacers. These would be nice but they did not fit my springs. The gents there were very good about taking them back.

Steele Rubber makes rubber ones, and I bought those. I do like the idea of delrin being that it would slide easy and last. I'm not done yet and may make something up with delrin.

Remember, I have a 110, and those Eaton ones my fit something else. If you measure your car I can tell you if it's the same as mine.

On removal: I took my springs out as assemblies. It's fairly straight forward, but a little bitchy. First, drop the rear end. Then, you'll have to play with your jacks a bit to get the load off of the spring mount you are working on. When they are off, there's a single bolt in the center holding all the springs together. There's some tension there, but not much.

As always, PB Blaster is your friend. Start squirting now.


Rich

I have some info to offer, I hope this helps. I got these from a preliminary parts book for 1940. If I ever find out how to scan and clean up the pages I would someday like to reproduce the book in its entirety.

Fred D.

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Just an fyi, that is also in the literature section of this site under "parts list" and "springs".

Rich

To my knowledge the antimony/tin friction buttons haven't been available for a long time now. Each spring was "tuned" to the body and chassis combination, replacement repro springs tend to be "one size fits all". Most leaf spring rebuilders either use a friction liner like Delrin or Teflon, yet others just leave the leaves naked to ride on each other. In either case you'll never be able to recreate the original ride qualities but if the leaves need rearcing or you have a broken leaf you don't have much choice.

I've never removed a leaf spring by taking the load off and removing the center bolt to diassemble the spring, I just take the load off and carefully remove the floating shackle bolt first, then the other and remove the spring as a unit.

Some springs seem to give up fast and other seem to ride well for several decades. If you could install a new,oem spring in your car, there would be a stunning ride difference. A spring shop should have many options for friction pads. I have used Teflon containing paint or spray over the years on various projects and they help to eliminate the friction thus allowing the suspension to travel less encumbered.
Consider replacing a main and/or #2 leafs with new for a refreshed ride. Or step up, replace new and drive the wheels off while sharing your car with America!

PS, see those dusty cars in the "Midwest cars" tread? Shame shame!If you are near SE WI and are similarly afflicted, let's talk!

My plan is to drive from Portland to Los Angeles, 1000 miles each way, and I want things to go as 'smooth' as possible.

Taking the load off....what does that mean? What do you jack up without preparing for a big surprise? (I have a manual. I'm just looking for a couple good stories about removing springs.)

And to keep on topic, options for restoring/refreshing rear springs...

@Owen, that's indeed what I meant. But you do (obviously) have to unload the spring to get the shackle bolts out.

@Joe. A) Remove Rear Axle. B) get the shackle bolts loose. Having them loaded helps keep them from spinning. C) Jack up car as needed to remove shackle bolts. Once a leaf set is removed, put a c-clamp on the center of the leaf set and remove the bolt holding the springs together. Then remove c-clamp.


Rich

Thanks Rich for the observation. The pages I photographed were not from the parts manual you mentioned. Yes I also have that parts book. I have a preliminary 1940 Parts book that I used for the reference. I have been told by some that the book isn't of much value since it is for a specific year. I have used it numerous times to help with passing information about the 1940 Packards. Thanks again for the observation.

Fred D