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I just acquired a 1949 2252-9 Custom 8. The turn signals did not work so I checked the flasher installation and the fuse had blown (it was a 14 amp fuse and the wiring diagram says it's supposed to be 9 amps). Anyway, I put a 9 amp fuse and tried it and that blew too. So I figured the flasher was bad, it was a Tung Sol 538. Some posts on this forum suggested a Tung Sol P229D so I tried one of those with a 14 amp fuse and the right signal worked, both the indicator dash light blinked as did the outside light. However the left signal did not, and eventually the fuse blew again. I guess this means it's the switch? Geez, I hate to have to remove the steering wheel. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

Maybe this might be of help:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=17578&forum=2&post_id=174850#forumpost174850
Wes

G'day prentice672,
to PackardInfo. I invite you to include your '49 Custom Eight Touring Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry.

This post probably needs to be moved to Post-War.
Wes

If yours is not one of the hybrid systems such as in the post Wes linked to, the 49 22nd series turnsignals in the early 22nds are relatively simple compared to the 49 23rd series. You should have only 3 wires going up the column to the switch. It could be the switch - or one of the wires - but before going there, I would do the easy part first by very carefully examining the wiring, bulbs and sockets in the trunk.

The 22nd turnsignals should use a separate bulb at the rear and it is typically positioned in the lower hole in the housing. That location puts it at the right height to be easily damaged if something in the trunk shifts and happens to hit the socket. The wire going into the socket could be smashed and shorted at the center hole. Another possibility is one of the plastic connectors or one of the wires near the left tail light where the socket wire joins the body loom coming overhead from inside the car could be damaged. Since it is the left side, the short loom going across the rear of trunk floor and the right lamp assy should not be involved. For future reference, you might note that short section of loom has been known to give issues with tail lights if a wire shorts at the hole in the floor where wires exit to supply the license lights.

If the trunk area checks out, also look at the wiring in the engine compartment. Not as likely a spot as the trunk but the old insulation in the short rubber cable to parking lights could be dry and brittle and a chunk fell off allowing it to short. Typically that happens where it exits the compartment thru a hole and enters the outer fender or grill area to reach the light assy..

If nothing is found then time to look at the column and switch. The wires go thru a bracket at the bottom and up the column to a hole in the mounting plate where they make a sharp bend into the switch. If a chunk of the old insulation fell off there could be a short.

Good afternoon...Pulling the wheel is not too hard. First, turn the plastic Packard piece in the middle of the wheel 1/4 turn to the left and it will come off.

Then you can carefully remove the parts, carefully noting how things were assembled. Then you can remove the horn ring by removing a few screws.

Remove the wheel with a wheel puller. Ours came off really easily. Mark the location of the wheel carefully so that you can put it back on the shaft in the same location. Then take the stalk out of the switch and finally unscrew the four screws that hold the switch into the wheel base.

You may or may not have much slack in the horn button that comes up through the 'Jusus Nut' that holds the wheel on the shaft at the top of the steering column. I cut the wire and spliced it back when I re-assembled.

Look carefully at the switch. Ours was broken due to a failure of the plastic/particle board that the contacts are soddered/mounted to.

Study the switch. If you see that the switch has failed, you need to unplug it at the bottom of the steering column and pull the wire up the steering wheel. I had to disconnect the wiper switch in order to get the plug to clear and come all the way out/up.

You can drill out the little revets that hold the switch together and possibly repair the board with several layers of JB Weld. Put the switch back together with tiny nuts and bolts from ACE Hardware or an Eye Glass kit.

Ours was pretty rough and Max Merritt did come up with a nice clean replacement switch. I'm sure Kanter, Packard Seattle, and others will be able to find you one, if needed.

Also, check the wires to the back of the car carefully. We had one wire that was just severed! Also check the condition of the bulb receptacles as they can fall apart as well.

I would start by checking the switch, because if it is bad it can make all of the rest of the indications really confusing.

At the beginning of the project, bless everything with a light sprinkling of cold beer!

Ernie

Blown fuse indicates a short. Fault detection is necessary prior to reenergizing.
Corrosion, fused contacts, or insulation failures are common causes.