Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi Guys,

I know little about Packards.

I just bought a 1953 Packard Clipper 4 door. It has been sitting outside in the weather for ten years but the thing runs fine and drives ok. It appears to have a few surface rust spots around what I guess are the usual places.


I need some help decoding it though..

Here is what I found:
Door Tag 2662 16812
Body Number 2662 16812
Engine date 4-16-53
Engine head numbers read 448017 327 Thunderbolt
Engine SN L317724H
Carter Carb W60

Firewall Thief Proof number C29795

Thanks in advance. I'll be doing a long term restoration keeping the vehicle as original as possible.

G'day qbert,
to PackardInfo. I'll leave the decoding to the experts. But, could you please include your '53 Clipper in the Owner Registry together with a pic, any known history and how you acquired it? Enjoy your Packard

Good car, congratulations! Check out BigKev's project blog, his 54 resto project is good information, it's long but very detailed with lots of photos.

Post some photos if you have a chance, we all love to see photographs!

Welcome...

Also Welcome.
Here's a bit of decoding for your numbers. If I'm wrong on something, someone will correct me quickly.

2662 is 26th series (1953) 62 is 4 door 6 passenger Clipper Deluxe sedan on the 2611 chassis--122" wheelbase, second set of numbers is the sequential number starting, I believe, from 1001.

Body number: Briggs Manufacturing number & usually close to but not always the same # as door tag.

Engine number: L3 series is the 327 160HP 5 main engine with solid lifters which is correct for your car. Remaining numbers are sequential. Not sure what the suffix H is for in this case though, as Packard identified any mfg changes different from originally spec'd with either a letter or some type of symbol.

Engine date was when the block was cast which appears to mid-late production.

The embossed body or thief proof number is the only permanent number on the car yet the one almost no records are available on. Owen_Dyneto is collecting and maintaining a database of these.

Head number is a casting number and not generally useful for anything.

Carb should be a Carter WGD-928S. The number on the brass tag would identify for rebuild kit & part purposes but may not be much use today.

Most of the information is here on site so anything else you might have questions on probably has an answer in some of the documentation.

Thanks Guys,

I just got it home. The guy I bought it from said it runs real well but I am pulling the plugs then I'll rotate the engine by hand for a couple of revolutions to make sure nothing binds up before I hit it with the starter.

That is some great info you gave me. I really appreciate it. Everything on this car looks to be original- even the seat covers. I'll supply a pic as soon as I can.

qbert,

It might be a good precaution to drain the oil and drop the oil pan to see if there is gunk in the pan. No need to recirculate 10+ year old gunk through the engine again. I doubt if it was parked in the field in pristine condition.

Also, I wish I knew to remove the idler arm bracket when trying to drop the oil pan. Could have saved 1hr + of frustration. (I assume that is necessary on a 1953, others who know better may correct me here).

Welcome to Packard Mania,
OR rather Packard Info
DanL

Thanks,

The engine spins ok by hand. I'll drop the pan and check for sludge. The plugs all look good-no oil fouling.

I pulled the seats and the floor coverings and discovered that the front passenger, rear passenger and driver's floors are rotted. The trunk looks good, the firewall is good.

Is Classic2Current fabrication a good place to buy replacements?

qbert

I've not worked with this vendor myself.
If you use 'search' on the forum section you get several hits for 'Classic2Current' Here is a recent discussion of several PackardInfo members with their representative:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=1332&forum=8&post_id=10836#forumpost10836

DanL

Good place to get a one-piece oil pan gasket:

http://ultramaticdynamics.com/

Here's some pictures of what the gasket looks like when it arrived before I installed it (scroll down to post number 219):

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2092&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=200

If it's anything like my 52 300, you'll need to lower some of the steering assembly, remove the flywheel cover, and possibly raise the engine to get at all the oil pan bolts. I did it without raising the engine but I had to contort my hands to get at all the bolts between the engine and the crossmember.

Then, when the pan is loose, you may need to hand-spin the engine to get the front counterbalances out of the way.

All the 51-54 are the same as far as oil-pan removal, and I used that same one piece gasket.