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am also for a 6 vole fuel pump for a 1948 327 ci.

Many have used the Airtex E8011 pump mounted near the tank and controlled by a fused circuit with a separate on/off switch. It is a 6v pump which has individual power wires so can be wired to work with positive or negative ground. Being a solenoid type pump the mechanical pump will be able to pull fuel thru while the electric pump is off. It should be available at most parts stores and also on Amazon.

If the electric pump is to be used alone and the mechanical pump will be eliminated or bypassed, the 5-8psi pressure of the E8011 may be too high. While the 5-8 psi will drop considerably by the time it reaches the carb because of going thru the line and fuel pump and any filter, used alone it could overwhelm the carb. The E8902 would be a better choice in that application as its 2.5-4.5 psi more closely matches the output pressure of the mechanical pump. All the other specs of the 8902 are the same as the 8011.

Here are the specs on the E8011.

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If you mount it back near the tank, I would think that the pressure would drop considerably by the time it got to the carburetor.

HH56, as always, gives careful, accurate, considered advice.
I use the E8011, so mounted just forward of the tank, merely to prime the system as my wheeled alter ego, like most collector cars, sits a spell between forays into 21st Century traffic. The gentleman at the local NAPA emporium many of us old car folk patronize said he has such a fuel pump on his old ride and turns it on only "one or two seconds" lest it flood the carb.

Works for us.

Off topic, but like Howard and Owen Dyneto, another savvy soul here, Tim Cole, recently suggested on yet another radial vs. bias ply thread that some of the vastly higher inflation pressures of radials can be hard on suspension and other components. He's right, and i hope i'm not traumatizing my lightly driven '47 Super by running 42 psi in her Bridgestone R230 LT non-metric, correctly bias-sized 7.00 x 15 radials instead of the 32 psi i ran in her former Denman bias tires.

Meanwhile, still have plenty of nice parts for 1941-47 Clippers, and '40s 356 cars, for sale in the For Sale/Wanted/Trade forum here.

I also mounted the Airtex pump just ahead of the gas tank on my 1947 Super Clipper. I installed a pressure regulator ahead of the pump also and set it at 4 p.s.i. as I recall. I used it to prime the carburetor and as an emergency pump. Be mindful that if you route the gas through the mechanical pump and use the electric pump there is a chance that if the diaphragm breaks on the mechanical pump gas could be pumped into the crankcase. It is recommended to bypass the mechanical pump if you are using the electric pump as the primary pump. There is,or was the last time I looked , an excellent write up on the various methods of routing the pump gas lines on the Packard Club website.

The best location for such pumps is at the lowest point of the frame - around midway - because the design of the fuel system creates a syphon action once the fuel goes over the axle. I have had to relocate pumps on cars away from the tank because of fuel starvation. Given a lot of those old mechanical pumps don't hold static pressure a fuel petcock at the carburetor would reduce extended cranking after a long storage period. However, that is not a good idea because it would create a stress point at the carburetor.

Tim, I was always under the impression that placing the electric fuel pump as close to the tank was the optimum location because a maximum amount of the fuel line could be pressurized. However, your words about the syphoning affect is something to be considered. My 47 Clipper Custom had an electric fuel pump installed as you describe about midway between tank and pump. I never had a chance to use it as the new gas ruined the diaphram and I removed it.

Your other comment about a petcock near the carburetor is also interesting to me. I suppose a one way valve could also be fitted in the pump to carb line to keep fuel from draining back to the pump. Unlike a petcock, this would not cause any physical strain on the carb.

There has been some discussion over on the Avanti site about fuel drain back and installing a one way valve. The Avantis have a fuel return line from the pump to the tank, which probably makes the drain back condition worse.

Thanks for the new ideas.

(o[]o)

I mounted my pump within the frame rail, just forward of the axle. I only use it to prime, and or to help overcome vapor lock on those 110f days. Make sure to use a fuel filter before the pump, and not one of those super small once that can clog if you look at them wrong. I have an aviation rated filter that has a lot of surface area.

I agree with installing a filter in front of the electric pump and ALSO installing a shutoff valve in front of the filter. It certainly makes it easier to change the filter without getting drenched in gas.

Here's what I did. I did not install a check valve. Like Big Kev, I flip the sprinted toggle switch before I start and if I experience a hiccup on super hot days to break through the vapor lock. Pix on the bench and installed.

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