Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I have preformed replacement exhaust system for my 1948 Packard Custom. Does anyone know the trick to getting the front section of pipe (header pipe) installed through the frame? It seems the engine has to be out of the way, which is a bit extreme.

I had to replace the exhaust pipe (manifold to muffler) on my '47 Custom Clipper. The replacement pipe would not fit through the frame. After a second pipe was provided, with the same results, I ended up cutting one of the pipes into two pieces and then splicing them together after installation. Not a satisfactory solution, but it worked.

(o[]o)

The same thing happened to me when I replaced the exhaust system on my 1950 23rd series Deluxe 8. Funny thing was that I was able to snake the old pipe out without cutting it. There must have been a tiny difference between the old and new pipes.

I had to cut the old header pipe out, which wasn't original. What was in there was smaller diameter (same as the aft exhaust pipe with a non-stock muffler) and had been installed in two pieces rather than one. Even though it was smaller diameter I couldn't remove it without cutting it ahead of the frame. I do have the manifolds off to replace the gaskets (exhaust leaks prompted this little project), but that doesn't seem to help.

BTW, the manifold gaskets that were there were the flat sheet type and what I am going to install are the individual circular ring type. Any tips? I'm assuming the ring type are original on the 356ci and the flat ones were aftermarket. Is that correct?

I purchased an exhaust system for my '50 Custom from Klasskollection and had it installed by a local muffler shop. They managed to install it without cutting or re-bending. I wasn't there to see how they did it so I'm not much help.

It has been ages since I did one of those, but I think the muffler has to be out, splash pan off, and the pipe fed through from the back.

The manual has an interesting tip on how to center the exhaust in the frame to avoid rattles. Check it out.

I found the right combination. The header pipe does fit through the frame from the rear despite the large flange. The steering idler arm has to be disconnected from the frame and dropped down out of the way. That provides just enough clearance, barely, to snake the pipe into position.


Now to reinstall the manifold. Any tips to ensure a good long-term seal?

With the manifolds bolted together as an assembly, check the faces with a good straightedge. Often warpage has taken place and if significant, a resurfacing (again, as an assembly) may be called for.

I suspect the OEM-style steel sandwich gaskets may be a bit more forgiving than the modern soft composite type.

Use a torque wrench where possible, and retorque after a few hours of service.

FYI - The PI So Cal chapter reproduces the perforated metal-sandwich style gaskets.