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Joe Wrote: "I stopped for gas and as the car sat getting warmer, my brake lights came on. The Accurate people had re-built the master cylinder to stop a leak, and they had bled and adjusted the brakes after. They had adjusted them too tight and didn't back them off."

Joe, I'm a little concerned about this. I think the pushrod from your brake pedal to the master cylinder is miss-adjusted. Brake shoes run out to tight would not usually result in a brake light switch becoming pressurized and actuating while sitting because the master cylinder relief port would normally bleed off any excess pressure built up in the line. However, if the pushrod from the pedal to master cylinder piston isn't adjusted to leave just a slight amount of free movement between rod and piston the relief port in the master cylinder is covered no longer allowing line pressure from heat to relieve into the reservoir. A broken brake pedal return spring can also cause the piston to not return to the rest position.

Just a friendly thought for your consideration.

Your car looks fabulous!

Good hearing from you, Jim.

Yes, I did some reading on checking brakes.
1. Fill master cylinder to 3/8" from the neck. That the Accurate people did right.
2. Make sure there is 1/2" free travel on the pedal by setting the adjustment nut.
You are absolutely right. There was no travel and when things heated up, the lights came on and the brakes locked.

I didn't know about #2. My manual was with Bob Earls to help him with the Stromberg carburetor. I adjusted the rear brake shoes to compensate and was on my way. But when I got home, the brake lights wouldn't go off, so I pulled the connection on the stoplight switch and went to bed, so the battery wouldn't run down any more.

Next day I read my Motor Manual which had the above procedure. I loosened the nut to get 1/2" free travel. Then, because the shoes were loosened, the brakes felt a little mushy. But the travel on the pedal when standing was exactly 1/2".

I decided to take it to Les Schwab Tire Center (the best) and have them adjust everything perfectly. But first I needed to change out the generator. Your car would have the correct arrangement for the generator bracket. Also the outside dimension of the generator ears on your generator. Can you see with a mirror or from under the car if the ear goes between the bracket and the flange? If the rear ear goes in front or behind the bracket? Not asking much, am I?

I suspect that back in the day, you could get an Exchange generator that was nearly the same, same specs, same dimensions, rather than having your own rebuilt. Your car is so original, is your generator a GEA-4802A?

GENERATOR: Please relax. The Parts Catalog indicates that the correct generator is attached with 5/16" bolts. That tells me the Larger generator is closer to correct, not the smaller, whose ears have holes for 1/2" bolts. If the generator for a 1950 Custom Super 8 is a GGU or GGW, that may be the clue to its origin of the large generator

The holes in the bracket and flange are also for 5/16th in. bolts.

Jim, JW,
I'm taking the larger generator, the one that came out of the car, to Philbin on N. Russell. These were last rebuilt in 1986 by
Willamette Electric Products, but like Merle's Carburetor, they closed up shop years ago.

It might take a week, according to Philbin, but then I'll put the larger generator back in.

Thanks for help.

Joe,

Agree with O_D on Auto Lite generator numbers. The GEA 4802A is also listed for the 46-47 Super 8s. According to my 1935-53 Motors Manual an Auto Lite GEA-4801A is listed for the 40 6s and 8s. No Delco generator is listed for the 1940 8s and Super 8s.

My generator was rebuilt and refinished, and was fitted with a reproduction tag. The tag was not stamped with the generator number.

I never had the engine out of the 47 Clipper. I removed the grille in order to remove the water distribution tube and to more easily service the water pump and front end of the engine.

Good catch on the brake pedal rod free play. You are very lucky that the brakes did not lock up on the road and catch the car on fire or worse. Inaccurate Motors?

Here are the pertinent photos I could find.

Keep at it, you will get it all sorted out.

(o{}o)

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GENERATOR: Decided I give the smaller generator installation another go. Got it in there, lined up, hooked up. It was rebuilt in 1986 and has been stored since. The bigger generator is being rebuilt and will be ready next week.

I had every reason to believe this one was ready to go. Famous last words. No juice. I set a makeup mirror on top of the front seat so I could the ammeter, started the car. Had a wire connected to the brown Field terminal with the red paper around it. When I touched the other end to a ground (the one on the inside of the fender. Nothing.

There isn't a piece of paper or anything to remove when a generator has been rebuilt is there? This is supposed to be the definitive test for the generator. I did it several times and on a ground on the firewall.

I'm going to take it out and take it to Philbin when I pick up the other one. I might check the continuity of wiring before I do. I just can't believe this.

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There isn't a piece of paper or anything to remove when a generator has been rebuilt is there? This is supposed to be the definitive test for the generator. I did it several times and on a ground on the firewall.

Not that I'm aware of but if the generator hasn't been in operation you should polarize it. With everything connected briefly touch a wire between the BAT and ARM (or GEN) terminals on the regulator. There will be s small spark when they connect and it doesn't need more than a second or two. Once that is done try it again and see if any change. If still no go and the wires are good then it or the regulator needs looking at.

Howard,
To check continuity I pulled the instrument panel. Boy I'd sure done a good job of holding it place. I have continuity and everything is nice and tight back there. Now to re-fasten it.

I did the polarization thing and it didn't charge. I started through the manual again.

1. I checked to be sure the regulator and generator were well grounded. That they were.

2. I repeated the Field to Ground test, setting up the mirror. This time CHARGE! So the polarization fixed that and the generator is good.

3. Have to see what's next. But now the focus is on the regulator.

Thanks again for excellent guidance. (The picture shows no charge because too many things to coordinate, plus you're only supposed to touch ground briefly.)

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Great picture Joe!

I was having a regulator problem (perceived problem???), and even changed it about 3 times. It was not a continuous non-charging problem. Sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. I think I finally decided that with regular use, it seemed to work fine.

GENERATOR REGULATOR: I picked up the generator today from Philbin. It needed refreshing, but apparently it was functional when I brought it in. Though I managed to get the smaller generator in the car, I'm putting this refurbished one back since it is more correct.

I tried understanding the regulator and the tests, but decided to replace it. I was doing some things wrong. The Air Gap I finally realized is between the winding and the bottom contact on the Armature and Battery components, Not between the contacts themselves at the top. Well, the thing didn't work with the contacts touching, so I set them .048" apart per the spec. It still didn't work.

Turns out NAPA sold me a regulator that someone else had returned. It was defective. I did suspect a little something because the box was beat up, there was no instruction label on the cover, no packing, and no instruction sheet inside. I just don't have the confidence yet to suspect the part is the problem...a new $65 part...is the problem. I assume I'm doing something wrong... which is pretty much the history since starting this. Eventually I get there, with help. This time it was different. Not me.

West, I'm really trying to understand the regulator. How to test it conclusively and how to adjust it. When I was a kid, I would hit it with my hand and more often than not, it worked again.

NAPA gladly exchanged the regulator. the new one works great. Charges up. Goes to 0. Turn on the headlights, heater, fog lights...flips to discharge an instant then immediately to 0.

CARBURETOR: The Carter is working fine. No more pinging since retarding it one notch on the distributor.

The Stromberg spring that No One has (unless they rebuild your carburetor) that I found on the stromberg website for the AAV-26, Bob Earls thinks will work. The diameter is only .007" different than the bushing on the fast idle cam.

BRAKES: I have appt with Les Schwab first thing in the morning to check and adjust the brakes back to where they should be prior to the Accurate experience.

WEDDING: July 6. Have to drive bride and dad to roof top of Hotel de Lux.
youtube.com/watch?v=ESN-neFrKa8
Practice run this weekend.

SANTA CRUZ: Thinking of ambitious drive to Santa Cruz CA, 700 miles via the coast route. Am I dreaming? Gee I just barely got it running again. In 2 weeks.

Mal, Thanks for compliment on photo. That mirror has a heavy magnet on the bottom that secures it well to the metal and "roll-bar" at the top of the seat. Plus it magnifies and swivels around at any angle. The service instructions often do not take in consideration that one person has to do the job.