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Good evening,
I have a 1950 Custom TS with a 356cu engine. Over the years the Ultramatic transmission was replaced by what I identified as a Torqueflite.
The engine rear main bearing leaks.
What is the best way, $ economically to replace the seal?
Does the engine has to be pulled out?
Can it be accessed by removing only the oil pan?
Can it be accessed by removing the transmission and the torque converter?
I welcome any advice, suggestions, recommendations.
Also on the block of my engine the casting by the distributor has the number 226 or 228 (hard to read). Does anyone have an idea of what it means?
Thank you for your help.

It's a nasty job that can be done in the car. It is a rope seal and unless you are an experienced with this task I would not try it.

Dell,
Thank you for your advice. From what I read and saw on my car, I agree with you. This job is not for me. However, if a professional mechanic does the job, does the engine has to come out? or can it be done by removing the oil pan?

The rear seal can be replaced with the engine in the car. Access is via the oil pan. Agreed, not a fun job!

You would need to loosen slightly all the main bearings to allow the crank to "drop" a bit. Remove the rear cap and remove the bottom half of the rope seal. Then use something flexible to push out the upper half of the rope seal.
I don't know if they still make them or not, but they had a tool that fastened to one end of the upper rope seal to allow you to pull it in place up around the crank journal. it should be able to be done in the car.

Thank you Owen and ptv for your knowledge of the process.
I think Max Merritt or Kanter could probably get the rope seal, but the replacement of it looks like a major task...

Assess how bad the "leak" is first, nuisance drip on the driveway(put a pan* under it) or a quart a week and then decide if it's worth it. "Sign of originality".
If not done right, it'll still leak. So I'd get someone that done a bunch of them, if available.
I had a guy on another brand do one and he botched it badly. Rope seals are not common except in industry. They have to be overlapped and cut properly. There's a cutter for the rope. What you don't want is a squared off or ragged edge to act as a channel.
There's info on the web you can search on this subject. I'm "ailing/om meds" and just don't have links handy.

* - I go to the big box and get one the cheap 26" water heater catch pans, plug the drain, and fill with oil dry.

I had a problem with my rear main seal which disintegrated and ended up at the oil pickup screen. I was lucky to catch it in time before any engine damage. Anyway, I replaced the seal with a rubber main seal for a Chrysler slant six engine (if I remember correctly). It was not so difficult to to with engine in the car and has been dry since.

Could be something to consider.

Hi Fish'n Jim,
Thank you for your message. You are right before jumping on a big expense and potentially still have a leak, I assessed the leak. It is really more of a nuisance than a big leak. I took a picture of the leak after 4 days sitting in the garage and after running for about 80 miles.
I think I am going to leave it asnits and keep a drip pan under the car.
Have a good day.