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I spoke to Dan Summer in regard to the handles. He makes them to order out of stainless steel and can make either side, locking or not. They are not cheap ($620 each).

So I'll file that away as a worst-case senario, but keep looking for a better one for my car as my pocket book wont allow that kind of money when there are 500 other things more pressing.

The key blank should be a B 1.

A little bit of progress tonight.

The new battery box and retainer arrived from John Ulrich. You can see in the picture how the old box had been patched before.

So what got dropped into place.

Next I moved installing the column mounted turn signals. The built in hose clamp that came with it was junk and snapped before it was even close to tight. So I used a thicker hose clamp that I had and that worked well.

Then I tied it into the new harness.

I then spliced in the 50 Amp maxi-fuse into the main harness feed from the starter battery lug. Then I had to extent that 10ga wire as it needed to loop through the amp meter next.

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Looking good! Does the switch have a selfie-canceler? The one in one of my 1940 110s had a rubber wheel that contacted the steering hub behind the wheel to cancel the signals when turning the wheel ahead again so I’m curious if modern units for old cars have that too.

No self canceling. But it has a blinky light!

Blinky lights are good!

My dad's '38 Super has the same turn signal lever. I do wish it had self-cancelling when completing a turn. Other than that it works fine.

-Kevin

Kev....don't forgot about my blog on my 37...i did the same wiring harness as you pretty sure. lots of info in there.

A few small things tonight.

The 37 doesn't really have a hood support and in normally just lays over when open. This is hard on the center hinge and marks it hard to both under both sides of the hood at the same time. So I installed these hood rests that the San Diego PAC Chapter sells. I painted them black and added some rubber in the channel to protect the hood "paint". I even used pan head slotted screws so it would look factory-ish.

They appear to work pretty well.

Also wired the dimmer switch and remounted it. Also installed a rubber cap over the switch.

That's it for this evening as I have errands to run for the holidays.

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My '37 115c has on each side a hunk of "S" shaped metal with some vinyl on it to hold the hood panels. They were installed over the rods, seem to work OK but obviously not stock.