Packard Forum Index » General

Has any of you guys ever tried using Lye based oven cleaner to strip parts with?

Just curious how well it works and if it causes any damage to the parts or not?

I have used spray type oven cleaner to clean 1920's Packard aluminum oil pans with excellent results.
I don't if it was lye based, just a regular supermarket product

I've used it as well. It's works better on a hot motor. You just really have to flush it off really well ND dry completely otherwise you'll be amazed how quickly it flashes over in rust.

Works well for removing caked on grime from steel and iron parts.
It will attack aluminum so any contact time should be minimized.
And as Kev says it should be thoroughly flushed off.

I can't speak for car parts, but a friend of mine used some natural citrus cleaner (I think sold at WalMart) in a jar for a badly rusted hammer that cleaned it right up like new. Word of warning though, at some point he moved and cracked the jar and created a slight leak and it ate a bit of his concrete in his garage as well.

I haven't used oven cleaner but I have used that very strong no-scrub bathroom cleaner on things that are hard to clean, like car wheels. It will etch aluminum. So today, I stick with Dawn and a good ol' toilet bowl brush.

I'm having good luck with Evaporust for rust removal, but it won't do anything with grease. I guess it ain't Evapogrease.

I use it to strip off undercoating overspray on stainless steel parts. It also takes off original paint so watch out.

For new paint, you need paint stripper.

And yes the oven cleaner will clean very well in general.

Read the labels of the oven cleaners carefully. DO NOT use lye on aluminum components! They are incompatible and a violent reaction can occur with risk to health and potentially rapid destruction of the aluminum parts.

Never use products for unintended uses.
Plenty of commercial cleaners, Gunk, etc. for this. Visit your local parts store.

I use HD "easy-off" on my SS fry pans, and it's very unfriendly to use and makes me cough/gag from the mist/vapors. Have to hold my breathe while applying then leave area but only thing that works. I've tried them all. Should come with more warnings.

I observed/investigated an industrial accident when caustic(lye) got backed up into a steel nitrogen distribution system with cast aluminum meters and the meters blew apart from the build up of hydrogen from reaction with caustic... ie, incompatible materials.
Not worth killing yourself to save a few seconds cleaning something or ruin a rare priceless part.
If you don't know what kind of metal it's made of, don't try stuff.
Water and the purple or orange stuff will clean most greasy things but may take a few washes/brushing. "Dawn" dishwash detergent undiluted is also effective for greasy. I use it on the concrete floor for oil spills, after the oil dry, if the other two don't get all the sheen off. Apply, brush it, let it sit then hose it off. Some powders will absorb it better than granules. I'll sometimes grind fresh oil dry in with my boot after the first spill is gone. Sweep up.
The issue usually is as DIYers we don't have the knowledge or proper tools and equipment to safely do the jobs at home, so resort to short cuts/experiments that cause issues. Best is to get a parts cleaner machine for your garage. Find a local "dipper" or industrial cleaner that can degrease your larger parts, if you can't.

I wish I knew the content of this thread before I called my wife into the room for some input.