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Bonjour Kevin et merci pour ces précisions sur la date de fabrication de ma voiture. Elle est complète a part un bouton de fermeture de porte, et peut-être des petits caches au niveau de l'extrémité des portes, en bout de vitrage (voir photo) pourriez- vous me dire quel est le montage d'origine svp? Le moteur a été remis en route, la boîte de vitesse semble fonctionner, la première chose sera de la faire rouler. Le chantier de la carrosserie commencera dans un second temps, en octobre 2025. Merci et bonne fin de semaine

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Thanks to Google translate, Panama80 said -

Hello Kevin and thank you for these details on the date of manufacture of my car. It is complete apart from a door closing button, and perhaps small covers at the end of the doors, at the end of the glazing (see photo) could you tell me what the original assembly is please? The engine has been restarted, the gearbox seems to be working, the first thing will be to get it moving. The bodywork project will begin later, in October 2025. Thank you and have a good weekend

Bonjour, Panama80, veuillez vous rendre sur ce lien, cliquez sur "New Topic" pour créer votre propre fil de discussion sur votre propre projet et posez vos questions ici. De cette façon, toutes vos questions et réponses seront dans votre propre message pour une référence facile.

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Towards the end of the driving season I noticed the brakes were not as good as normal. Took a look today and both reservoirs are lower, with the reservoir for the front brakes (rear reservoir) is very low.




No leaks anywhere that I can see. Pulled the front tires and checked the cylinders, no leaks anywhere. No idea where the brake fluid is going.

Checked the brake pads and not sure the secondary pad is hitting on the whole pad. I did not arc the shoes when I installed, no one did it. Knowing what I know now I would've used sandpaper to shape them.

Manual or BTV brakes?

Also look at any of brake line junction in the front or at the rear diff.

Sometime those only show seaping leaks under brake pressure, and the drip straight down and away from the car.

As that’s not a stock master, it’s hard to tell. You’ll likely have to trace all the lines and check all cylinders but in the meantime just fill and check again after some usage. You said “pads” which are disc brake terminology but you showed shoes so it’s not clear if you have a disc conversion or not.

It is not a stock master cylinder, you are correct. The previous owner installed it and a new pedal assembly, and removed what remained of the BTV. I've left it because it works and I didn't have a viable replacement.

I've traced all the lines and examined every junction and connection. The only thing that looks slightly damp is the rear junction block on the axle. But that looks more like gear oil to me. No paint is coming off the axle.

The BTV in Rusty may be rebuildable. It's all there, so maybe I'll pull that and send it in for a professional rebuild. Then change everything over. But I'll need to figure out a way to block off the several new holes in the firewall.

The Treadlevac that I rebuilt a couple years ago for my 1954 Patrician was from the parts car so was also quite rusty but in the end it came out nice with lots of patience and rust remover but very little blasting! At the time I had to use copper paint on those pieces that were originally copper plated but I now have plating equipment so may try my hand at re-coppering the next one I do for my 1956 Clipper, along with zinc plating the main chamber’s outside with its hardware for better durability. On the 1954, the one that was in the car had been rebuilt when it was one of my daily drivers but it had sat for years so now needs to be rebuilt too although it’s a far better core than the one I used. Rebuilding a Treadlevac is actually quite easy but the cleanup and cosmetics can be time-consuming.

As your master is not stock, it’s unlikely your pedal is the proper one but with stock, the brake and the accelerator are just a toe-pivot apart making for far more comfortable driving.

The old, rusty one:



The same one, right, after rebuild with the one from the car to the left.

Clean the rear junction with brake cleaner and dry it well. Then wrap it with some tissue paper and tape. Take for a drive with lots of braking. If there is fluid in the paper the you know that's where it's leaking.

Seaping leaks can be hard to spot. But even on the 37. I had to snug a couple of the fittings a couple times before it full sealed.

And the problem child one was one of fittings on the rear junction block.