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Have you tried a belt dressing/conditioner? They usually blame the squeak on slippage.
CRC and Permatex among others make them.
And it is easier than taking off a belt to run a test.

Quote: Or while the engine is running, CAREFULLY use a bar of dry soap, to lubricate the belt that way. A cheap and easy "fix".

As usual, things progress like a glacier. Anyway, I finally got my headlight relays wired up and installed. Aside from a few screw holes behind the battery, no other cutting or butchery Was involved. The circuit breaker and relays are hidden nicely behind the battery, and all color coded cloth covered cables are about as short as they can be to minimize voltage drop. Now people will not belive that this car is 6 volts. Yes, even in Germany where most cars are very well taken care of, do 6 volts have a bad reputation....I am happy how this came out. I would like to figure out a better way to mount the circuit breaker if anybody has an idea.

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If you mean getting rid of the tie wrap, a bracket mount breaker would be my suggestion and I would imagine something comparable to these would be available in Germany. First is a Napa offering and the second is from Amazon. Both are 30 amp but with different bracket orientations. 30A is the amount of protection the regular switch has for the entire load of tail, dash, headlights etc but you could probably go with 20A with the added breaker and relay setup since only the headlights would be using that breaker.

If you just wanted to add a bit of protection for accidental shorts at the exposed stud ends you could use a #10 screw thread protector cap. Not much could be done to protect the actual wire terminal ends from something dropping down on them unless you wanted to add a layer of RTV. You could also rotate the breaker 90 degrees with BAT at the bottom so if something fell and shorted to the load side the breaker would likely trip.