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Have you tried a belt dressing/conditioner? They usually blame the squeak on slippage.
CRC and Permatex among others make them.
And it is easier than taking off a belt to run a test.

Quote: Or while the engine is running, CAREFULLY use a bar of dry soap, to lubricate the belt that way. A cheap and easy "fix".

As usual, things progress like a glacier. Anyway, I finally got my headlight relays wired up and installed. Aside from a few screw holes behind the battery, no other cutting or butchery Was involved. The circuit breaker and relays are hidden nicely behind the battery, and all color coded cloth covered cables are about as short as they can be to minimize voltage drop. Now people will not belive that this car is 6 volts. Yes, even in Germany where most cars are very well taken care of, do 6 volts have a bad reputation....I am happy how this came out. I would like to figure out a better way to mount the circuit breaker if anybody has an idea.

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If you mean getting rid of the tie wrap, a bracket mount breaker would be my suggestion and I would imagine something comparable to these would be available in Germany. First is a Napa offering and the second is from Amazon. Both are 30 amp but with different bracket orientations. 30A is the amount of protection the regular switch has for the entire load of tail, dash, headlights etc but you could probably go with 20A with the added breaker and relay setup since only the headlights would be using that breaker.

If you just wanted to add a bit of protection for accidental shorts at the exposed stud ends you could use a #10 screw thread protector cap. Not much could be done to protect the actual wire terminal ends from something dropping down on them unless you wanted to add a layer of RTV. You could also rotate the breaker 90 degrees with BAT at the bottom so if something fell and shorted to the load side the breaker would likely trip.

Thanks Howard,
I will look to see if I can find something like that here, or send one to my sister in Veromnt who will visit me in April. -I found something on ebay, but it comes directly from China. I can't buy that....I also measured my voltage drop with this new wiring at 165 millivolts. With a failing switch and dirty connecters I originally had a 1.6 volt voltage drop. After putting new switches and cleaning all contacts I got down to 300 mV drop. So the headlights will be much brighter now. -I just have to make everything as safe, or safer as OEM by protecting that hot side wiring.

The 4$ breaker from amazon is at my sister's, and I'll install it in April.
My windlace was looking tired after 70 some years of service, so I am replacing that. The stuff that looks old I want to keep, but the stuff that looks trashed I want to replace. While I am in there I will clean and adjust the rear window tracks and stops, and also re-seal the weather barrier and put in some dynamat sound stuff. The original weather barrier looks pretty schriveled up. Getting the windows freed up, and properly adjusted will be another NVH improvement.

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This evening I cleaned the tracks for the rear Windows and adjusted the up and down stops so they fit pretty well in the full up and down positions. You can see what I was starting with on this picture taken from the inside.
On the one picture taken from the outside of the car, you can see that the bottom of the rear window does not really align with the window on the drivers door. Is there a way to adjust this? Do I adjust the front or the rear window? It is almost like the bottom front corner of the rrar window should adjust more outboard. The top of the window aligns pretty well. The passenger side is also better than the drivers side.
I found a few loose screws and a missing bolt, so tightening everything up, and with a clean and lube the Windows are easier to roll up and down. My girls will like it.

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The window alignment may need a bit on both windows. Check out plate 68 in the parts manual for the full door view but as I recall the circled items have a slot where they mount to structure inside the door so they can move in or out a small amount carrying the rear vertical track with them. On V8s they did more for adjusting capability and there were plugs on the rear door edge you can remove to get to that adjustment but that may not be the case on earlier cars as the brackets could be bolted or welded to the door itself. If no plugs you will need to go inside from the access opening to reach the track mounts and see if they are bolted or welded. On earlier cars there might also be a need for something like metal work or shims to move the window track in or ouward a slight amount.




On two doors, once you move one adjustment also be prepared to move others to keep everything in alignment somewhere else. It can sometimes get into a real round robin move one fix another type thing. As I recall on some model there was also an issue of some weld in the mounting of the vertical track piece breaking so look for something like that too. On the quarter window, I believe the pivot where you adjust the up/down stops also has a screw holding it to the jamb that has a bit of adjustment that might let it shift sideways a bit but that could also be more of a V8 thing. On the quarters you also need to pay attention to what is happening to the window edge inside the upper track if you mess with the pivot.