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I recently had to replace the oil sender on my 54. First I noticed my oil pressure light wasnt coming on when I turn on the ignition before starting rhe car.

Upon check everything it was the sender, which was also leaking oil. Pressure sure the leaking oil fouled the swtich.

Today I pulled the oil pressure sensor, lines and the T fitting. A few months ago I had already taken off the pressure sensor and re-sealed that. It did not stop the leak. I found that one of the threads going to the filter or the lifter galley is messed up.

I'll see if I can somehow re-tap this thing, but I am likely going to need to source a replacement part. Bummer about this part being buggered up, but as long as the block is OK, I guess I can count myself lucky.

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This is a common part that you should easily be able to find but be sure it’s not a generic aftermarket fitting. The originals were metered specifically for the partial-flow filters.

You should be able to take your drill bit set and pass drill bits through and find the size of the orifice, also estimate the thickness of the orifice passage. Then you can recreate one if needed. For example, making a replacement one from a piece of grass would not be particularly difficult for a machinist.

As a journeyman machinist myself, I would think that making it from a piece of grass would be very difficult!

Quote: It all depends on what you're smoking at the time.

I lined up an Oil line Tee with Gerry at Packardssouthwest, but that will take a while to arrive. Before I took those lines apart, I took an oil sample and sent it in to a lab for analysis. The lead content is pretty high, so either bearings are wearing, or it is residue from the days of leaded gasoline? I ran the German text through google translate.
-It isn't great news, but I guess I will just keep driving, keep an eye on my oil pressures and listen for knocking. I have an autometer oil gauge plumbed into the oil galley on the back of the block. Cold idle is a nice 15-20psi, hot idle is still 10psi, and while driving it goes up to 35-40psi. I did notice that it takes a few seconds for oil pressure to show up on the gauge. I’m not sure if the gauge is really slow, or the engine does take a few seconds to get oil pressure everywhere.. I suppose I could drop the oil pan and look at a few bearings to know better, but that might be overreacting.
Below the text from the oil analysis.
The wear values are slightly elevated. Lead, in particular, could indicate bearing damage. Alternatively, it could also be residue from the time leaded fuel was used. The remaining used oil values are unremarkable.
I advise you to continue monitoring the wear values as part of a follow-up test. To assess the trend, you should therefore send us a follow-up sample after another 1000 km.

The lead content is elevated. Possible sources of lead include bearing material from plain bearings, indicating irregular wear. Alternatively, it could also be residues from the time when leaded fuel was used.
The additive composition largely corresponds to the reference product available to us. Minor deviations may result from mixing with the previously used oil, but are technically harmless.
The sodium and potassium levels are slightly elevated.
Besides very small amounts of antifreeze, additive components of other additives (e.g., lead substitute in fuel) are also a possible source. The PQ index, as a measure of ferromagnetic wear in the oil, is slightly elevated.
Oxidation is slightly elevated. TBN is unremarkable. Viscosity meets specifications.
The sample is dark brown and transparent. No solid or liquid impurities can be detected.

The infrared spectrum of the used oil (blue) shows a high degree of similarity to the fresh oil spectrum (yellow). Slight oil aging can be detected. The further course of the spectrum is unremarkable.

I attached the report for anybody that wants to "nerd out" on the values in the report

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PackardOil_2025_11.pdf Size: 1,543.69 KB; Hits: 10

Bourdon tube gauges lag reality since the thick, cold oil has to get pushed through the tube to update the gauge. Mine (particularly on the Deluxe) takes a couple seconds to go from 40 to 0 and much longer to go from 0 to 40 even though my electric "idiot light" goes off almost immediately when the engine is started. (These numbers from starting it in around 40°F / 5°C weather.)

Original electric gauges also lag since the gauge uses a wirewound bimetallic strip for the reading, which takes time to heat and cool. Again, a couple seconds of delay is normal.

If desired, confirm operation with a hydraulic gauge connected with a relatively thick, short hose to the oil gallery, or a modern digital gauge again connected directly to the gallery.