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Here is a almost step by step pictorial of the removal of a rear drum on a Packard. Your car will be exactly the same.

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Loosen the axel nut, but DO not remove it. When the drum "pops" it sounds like a shotgun going off. You don't want it flying across the room with the puller on it. So keep the nut on, but loosen it until it's flush with the end of the axle. This will give the puller center screw more area to rest on. Once it pops, then you can remove the nut, and the drum.

Also here is picture of the old-school Blue-Point puller that I used (on the right), and a more modern one on the right. The old one is much heavier.

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Kev,

That's a very well illustrated "step by step".

Ok. About the drum that is seperated from the hub, can I weld it together or should I find a different one?

if you are having trouble finding a drum (these were high production years) I may be able to point you to as parts car

A parts car? Hmmm I could use a drum, hood and title. Tell me more about it.

Since the lug bolts (screws?) will secure the wheel and drum to the axle flange, why weld the drum to the flange? That is if the drum is in serviceable condition. Maybe the way to get around the difficult job of removing the drum from the axle to do work on the rear brakes is to remove the rivets that hold the drum to the axle flange. Then the drum could be removed much more easily; remove the lugs remove the wheel, remove the drum. This would work like the flanged axles that were used on the 1956 cars. Just thinking (?) out loud ...

I would imagine that the hub and drum are riveted together because of the forces in play during braking. The drum is transferring all the sheering and torsional force to the hub, and to the axel via those rivets. The lug bolts hold the tire to the hub, and probably provide another layer of mechanical connection between the drum and the hub. On most two-piece drum/hubs that I have seen if they are not riveted, then the are bolted together, and safety wired.

On more modern style drums, it usually cast as one solid piece which then is held on by the wheel studs and lug nuts.

Perhaps the other reason it has so many connection points (rivets and lug bolts) is because of the thickness (or lack thereof) of the mating surfaces between the hub and the drum.

As soon as I find a Ford 8.8" rear that'll fit my '48, you can have my whole rear axle for $100.

On Packards before 56, the drums are centered on the hubs by the rivets. Once the rivets are gone, the lug bolts will not center the drum adequately and you will get some thumpin'nasty braking. I have those drums sitting around handy.

Ross I am interested in a drum from you.