Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Had message from super8overdrive that I wanted to respond to:
My 48 Custom has a Red Top battery from Aug. 2009! It says “ Sc 6A CA 1000. CCA 800 RC 100”
I am assuming that if I can find the same Red Top replacement, I will be able to use the same copper cables and the same batter cut off switch. Is this the same battery you mention in your text for the 356 engine?

Why a booster and not a trickle charger to maintain charge? Are you having problems with starting the engine because of slow cranking speed?

Well, there are three reasons I can think of, personally:

One - on a trip do something stupid like leaving the lights on.

Two - I once had a problem where we parked and went on a hike, and the engine compartment temperature was really high, from being parked in the sun. The battery suddenly lost the ability to crank with any vigor. I fixed that by opening the hood and waited for 15 minutes, and it started.

Three (similar to two) - dealing with a vapor lock issue after, say stopping somewhere for lunch, and running the battery down trying to resolve it.

Marty asks a good question.
Meanwhile, have never understood all these complicated battery issues, scenarios seen too often on these forums.

Not difficult: Make sure your generator, voltage regulator putting out, working as intended.

Packard knew what they were doing. No need to reinvent the wheel. One (1) 6-volt Optima Red Top battery. Googling shows various sources. I like Summit Racing.

If, for some bizarre reason, you want a heavy, off-gassing plate battery, do not grasp that Packard built cars, not batteries, generators, tires, motor oil, brake fluid, or that weight is the enemy, have at it.

Double aught (00) solid copper battery cables available from any big rig supply house, ends both crimped and soldered. As JW counsels, any disconnect switch --a must on any vintage car -- on positive cable. Make sure it's rated for more amps than your gear-reduction starter draws. I like the brass, marine grade Cole Hersee switch available at any NAPA store, who you should always patronize because they're the only national chain that caters to old cars, have better stuff, generally, than the others, deserve our business.

Some of us like the positive-ground, 55-amp, 6-volt bolt-in alternators from Jim's Battery Manufacturing, Youngstown, OH (800) 426-7580. No butchering required. Tell Jim and Dolores that '47 Packard Super/Custom Supers in Walnut Creek, CA and British Columbia sent you.
Some tow trucks, emergency equipment in the 1950s had 6-volt alternators, which go back to War II. Had Packard somehow dodged the inevitable future for all independents, they'd have installed alternators, radial tires, 10W/30 oil, perhaps DOT5 silicone brake fluid, seatbelts.

If concerned what some clipboard fruitcake at a car show thinks about "originality," they offer fakey-do old-time battery covers to disguise the Optima. I prefer having the extra room on the battery tray for tools, etc. when working in the engine bay.

CTEK UC 800 is the trickle/float charger an Optima tech recommended. Have had mine since the late 1990s. Shows an orange light when charging, green when charged. Will not over-charge. Leave it on all the time, year 'round. The closer any battery kept to 100%, the longer it lasts. However, it's a good idea to deep cycle any battery now and then. If not driving for a few months, turn on your head or driving/fog lights for 30 minutes, then immediately recharge.

Never let a battery sit with low charge. This invites sulfation, death knell for batteries. I got nearly a decade from my last Optima, know of a '41 Cad that got 14 years, have heard of other old cars reporting 16 years. But then i also got a decade from the traditional plate battery in my Honda Civic.

The above is absolutely all you need. If your ignition and fuel system are in good shape, you'll be in fine fettle.

Why don't people use the Search box on this masterfully arrayed site's home page? The same questions, over and over.

There are two separate issues:

The first is good practice, as detailed below, to make sure the starting system is in fine fettle, and the battery is maintained, eg with a battery tender.

The reason to have one of those battery starters/quick chargers (if they exist, I still haven't found one that is specifically ok for a 6v system), or in lieu of that, keep a spare battery in the trunk, is for cheap insurance when on a trip, in case one accidentally drains the battery for some reason, perhaps from one's own stupidity, given that few motorists are even willing to give a jump these days.

If your goal is the have a 6 volt battery backup source, why not consider one of the sealed cell golf cart batteries
? Since they are a sealed cell there is no off gassing and should be non-corrosive in your car's trunk. If maintained by recharging every 2 months or so it should last for years.

Back to my initial post, IMO a 6 volt starting system in our Packard's is a very reliable system. The main source of slow cranking speed is under sized wire, bad connections (e.g. rust, corrosion, etc. especially on the ground side) or a worn out starter that needs a rebuild.

In searching Amazon, I found this:
amazon.com/Schumacher-DSR118-Handheld-Ba ... ster%2Cautomotive%2C96&sr=1-25&th=1

It appears to be able to both charge and jump start 6v batteries.

That looks like quite a find, a reputable manufacturer as well.

I have one and use it for the 6 and 12 volt fleet.
Only downside is you have to know what kind of battery you have to get a full charge. I didn't know one of my cars has a glass mat type battery. It look like a regular lead acid to me. I could only get a 99% charge. I called Schumacher and they told me exactly what to do. Choose the right battery type.

The 12v lithium battery car starters should work on a 6v to start it. I've always heard here on the form that did not damage the starter. Any comments?