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Got the jute installed on my new floor board. I still need to drill the mounting holes.

This is what I'm going to put in. It will be MUCH nicer next time I need to drain coolant as I'll be able to connect a hose that will go through the hole in the frame instead of it just splashing all around a running all over the place.

I’ve seen one with accommodation for a hose which always struck me as odd. None of my cars, whether Packard, Imperial or Cadillac have it.

When I drained coolant so I could repack my water pump, and install the heater tube and shutoff valve, it was kind of a pain. The drain cock that I have doesn’t turn 90 degrees or have any accommodations for a hose.

I probably should have removed it and found a replacement while I had the coolant drained, but decided to hold off. I would like to do it when I replace the lower radiator hose.

Is the drain cock just have 1/4 NPT. It looks like the car was set up to have a drain hose that goes down through the hole in the photo. Is that right?

Received the correct generator mount arm from Flackmaster today….de-rusted, primed, and painted it. Then, went to remove the incorrect one and ran in to a challenge.




This was a piece that someone fabricated by welding two bolts with different threads together and then welded the nut in place to serve as the spacer and the means of inserting the stud. Clearly, it was installed first!. Fortunately, It was no match for this.





Once I cut off a piece, it came right out and I was able to install the correct arm and spacer.

Thanks, Ozstatman and TXGOAT. It’s added to my list.

You don't want ANY restriction in your lower radiator hose. It's best to use the pipe arrangement with a smooth, full-diameter bend and to use pipe the same OD as the OD of the radiator and water pump connections. Using the pipe and short lengths of straight radiator hose eliminates any need of an internal spring, and it assures full, unrestricted coolant flow. Stainless, mandrel-bent pipe would be ideal. Or brass. The original pipes were mild steel. The bend, or curve, is a little more than 90 degrees.

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I found mine on ebay at decent price. I think the one that was recommended on your blog from NAPA is probably a good option. I would have done that except mine was already on the way.

Don - Where did you purchase your heater shut-off? I am looking to replace mine as well.

Don, Here's a photo of the stainless tube I installed in the '41. It took the place of a rusted out mild steel Packard part, but you could paint it and nobody would be any the wiser. Note, the curve in the stainless tube isn't quite the same as the Packard tube, it's close but I used what I could get!


EDIT - I'm pretty sure that either Max or Kanters or both can suppply a kit with all the parts required, hoses, clamps and tube.