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Thanks Craig and Kevin, I wanted to be authentic but the original type padding is no longer available. We'll see how this material and adhesive holds up. I like the look. It turned out better than expected. Take care.

(o[]o)

Hello All,

On Saturday I drove the Clipper to the 6th annual Vets Day Auto and Motorcycle Show in the nearby town of Bastrop. This was my 4th time at this event where in previous years I had shown the '37 Six Convertible Coupe twice, and the last year the '47 Custom Super Clipper Touring Sedan.

There was considerable doubt if this event would take place, as the area was the victim of a huge wild fire in September. Thousands of acres were burned and over 1,000 homes were lost to the fire. Sadly, there were human casualties too. The sponsoring area car clubs decided not to host the show, but the downtown association took on the job. They did a great job; it was well organized and run. I believe there were not as many vehicles participating this year, but still Main Street and many of the side streets were lined with a wide variety of autos, trucks, and motorcycles.

One of the displays was a Mach I Mustang that was destroyed in the fire. The owner made up a poster board of burned wood and placed on it photos of the car as it appeared last year at the show. The remains of the car were on a trailer. I am sure there were many more vehicles like this that were burned up in the fire.

There was no formal judging of entries. Participants were given a ballot with which to vote for their favorite in the many classes, except for their own class. We did not stick around for the awards ceremony, as there was a family function to go to later that afternoon.

My brother, Bill (who lives in the Dallas area), came down for the weekend and the show. The Clipper took us there and brought us home without incident. The car received many compliments and comments. Many did not know about or had never seen a Packard Clipper before. I especially enjoy interacting with people asking questions about the car. The car showed well. All the efforts in the polishing and waxing paid off. I should have taken photos of the polishing rags before and after use to show all the dirt and dead paint that was removed. Those dents, dings, blemishes, and rust sure polished up nicely.

It was a great show and I look forward to next year

Take care.

(o[]o)

P.S. Craig, the new hood insulation did start to come loose from the underside of the hood. Looks like I will need to find some better way to affix it. It works great, the outside of the hood was cool to the touch after driving the car, and it seems to be quieter.

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Great T shirt John!

Quote:

Wow! It came off that quick? My suggestion is to lose it.

Craig

I expect to have the same problem of the pad falling when the new one is put on. My car had inch wide 1/4 thick wooden slats from one side of the hood to the other holding the pad up when I got it.

Am seriously considering in addition to glue, adding the braces back in one of two ways: Either make them out of flat 1/8 iron bar about a half inch wide or 1/8 or 3/16 round rod stock-- If I put them on the outside, would use whichever would be less noticeable and paint to match the pad. But, instead of outside, had a wild idea and am considering threading 3 or 4 equally spaced but going thru the center of the pad or under the mylar cover where they should be pretty well hidden.

Maybe not original but with glue and the support, it should stay up. Anyone tried the center of pad method?

Try some bracing from a donor hood of some other car that has bracing between underside of hood and pad. Cut the bracing to fit. connect the bracing at the hinge bolts and the front brace of Packard hood. There is a rear brace on the Packard hood too.

Or to put it another way, just copy what some other car does fro hood pad retention.

Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions about the hood pad. I am going to try the 3M trim cement, and will report back how it works. The three layers are firmly stuck together with the 3M spray adhesive.

(o[]o)

JW,

Thought I'd throw this in here before you go ahead.

I'd suggest checking the heat resistance of any cement. Trim cement might not have that quality, being used on exterior trim for the most part. You might just find that something available in a caulk tube at the hardware store will be best and cheapest-- even "liquid nails."

The stuff that I got with some sound-deadening material for inside the engine doghouse on my inboard boat was PL200 Construction Adhesive made by Chemtrex Inc.

I wish I could tell you more, but like a lot of "creature comforts" on my boat, I never got around to using the insulation because I had more pressing matters to attend to.

That insulation was not of the automotive type, but was an egg-crate pattern foam for sound absorption in areas of high heat and noise like shop draft-hoods. Hard stuff to make stick to anything.

I don't know if "PL200" is even around any more, but using construction adhesive made to stand up to heat, cold, and dampness would seem like a very workable alternative for you.

Lastly, most hood insulation is now held on by plastic "buttons" that have a ribbed shaft that is pressed into holes in the braces on the underside of the hood. Really a neat system, and it allows removal and replacement of the insulation, which is usually one-piece molded material. You probably know what I'm talking about from looking under the hood of your newer vehicles. Complicated maybe, but worth a shot and no problems with adhesives.
(Unfortunately, you'd have to add the bracing under your Packard hood!)

I think putting visible slats across the insulation to hold it on would probably look tacky. Just my opinion.

John,

Another fantastic adhesive is 3M 5200. It is a marine grade sealant. I have used it in engine rooms to attach panels that get to around 150 degrees, and it has never come undone. In fact, it is extremely difficult to disassemble anything put together with the stuff.

Tom

Yes, that 5200 stuff is a sructural adhesive. You can build a boat with it. It's specifically for through-hull fixtures and NOT considered removable.

3M makes other caulk/sealants, and I believe 3200 is the number of the one that'll be more than enough to stick on a piece of insulation, it stays flexible and you can even remove it if you want-- but not easily. I think it comes in black, which would be much more forgiving on your car if it oozes out anywhere along the edges.