Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Going from memory but will check when I go back to the garage later. I remember I bought a die and new castle nuts. I chased the threads because they're external and were rusty.
I'm sure it's the same as the old 3/4 coarse, but is it 3/4-16 or 18? They changed coarse to 3/4-10 sometime later.

Getting old - missed the entire first page.
It's 3/4 - 16 if you're talking the end threads that hold the drum on.

We had a thread die tool that was special made for fixing damaged threads on axle shafts. It had three or four different thread sizes and was hinged on one end. We would open the tool, place it over the threads, close it, and fasten it down with a thumb screw. We would use the threads on inner side to start, then run the tool out to clean up the threads. Started on the inside as these threads were usually in better shape. Worked like a charm. Went looking for it, but can't find it. Too bad...

(o{}o)

There was one of those same axle rethread tools on ebay last week. May still be there. My threads were also messed up and couldn't thread the nuts back on. Almost bought the tool but finally came up with another plan & passed since I didn't figure I'd get $85 use out of it.

I used a small Dremel grinding wheel on the end thread where someone with a hammer had rolled them over. Once the mashed portion of thread was gone, then was able to get a rethread die on to clean up the remaining length.

Taps and dies for many of the now obsolete threads are standard catalog items available from MSC. I had such an instance on the axle stub thread of a 1931 Pierce Arrow and obtained the die for the obsolete thread. In fact I had a choice, a Chinese-made at very low cost, and top quality U.S. made. For only occasional or one-time use the inexpensive one may be the way to go.

Re post 10...I'd still like to know why you multiply by two. Thanks.

To check the diff ratio, you jack up one of the rear wheels and rotate the rear wheel off the ground two revolutions in the same direction. The diff ratio is the number of turns of the tailshaft to rotate both wheels one rotation. Because you are only rotating one wheel you need two turns. Make sure that you mark the pinion input to diff housing with a chalk line or similar to count the revolutions, also mark the wheel you are going to rotate with chalk to ensure that you can count the revolutions reasonably accurately, say within an inch or so. Just over 4 revs of the tailshaft would be 4.1, whereas just under 4.5 revs of the tailshaft would be 4.36. PT

That makes sense. The axle is a spare I bought to replace an axle shaft of mine that has a damaged taper. I got the drums off and was able to turn the pinion and determine that it's a 3.9. Mine is a 4.1 with overdrive. My intention now is to swap out my 4.1 carrier for the 3.9. Does anybody have an idea as to what pinion seal to use as it's leaking.

Please reference question #5 this post....Is the method suggested by Ross to remove the axle by using the drum as a slide hammer also applicable to the 51 through 54 models too?
Thanks......Steve..

....Is the method suggested by Ross to remove the axle by using the drum as a slide hammer also applicable to the 51 through 54 models too?

Sure. And the 55 models. And all the way back into the 20s and perhaps earlier. Just take care not to batter or otherwise damage the taper surfaces while they are reversed, a nice, snug and intimate fit is required of them.