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Hi All....
Are there different water pump configurations for a 2362 Deluxe Eight?
I pulled my old pump, and started to press it apart and noticed there was to retainer on the bearing. Also, there was no groove in the bearing sleeve. I checked the impeller clearance from the backplate. It was a good .015 over max. allowable spec. I ordered a new pump from Kanter, and it has the retainer and looks great. Was my old pump rebuilt with a different bearing, or did some not use the retainer? Also, the gasket for the new pump has a "cutout" from the small upper hole to a point on the pump body with no corresponding opening. This won't hurt anything. I'm' just curious. Further, I started working on the cooling system because of a "thinking" sound coming from the head, after a short run time. Sounded like a "hot spot". The sound occurred at about 30 second intervals. I have heard this once before on an old Ford flathead, I wound up rebuilding. It had a bad water pump. I had the head boiled out when I replaced a valve and keeper on the Packard. Also, I back flushed the block while the pump and thermostat were off. I am retrofitting with a new aluminum radiator, as the original was totally shot. I am unable to remove the copper water distribution sleeve from the block. It will not budge. We will see if the new pump and radiator get rid for the "tinking" sound. Any comments would be welcome.
Thanks a bunch,
Boodog

Are there different water pump configurations for a 2362 Deluxe Eight?

There is only a single water pump part# listed and I've never read of any running changes. Your current water pump may have been rebuilt in the past such that it now differs internally from the OEM assembly. Also, Kanter's pumps are not NOS or NORS but are entirely new manufacture so it would be expected that internal construction might not use the same components from 1949/1950.

"Tinking" sounds are most usually associated with exhaust systems expanding and contracting and especially associated with stainless steel system. Are you certain your noise is not from the exhaust system?

The water distribution tube is brass, not copper. I strongly encourage you to try again to remove it. There is always the chance that it will be nice and clean and free of debris but if not, it will result in uneven cooling of the block - cracking of the engine block across an exhaust valve seat is a common result.

Hopes this helps.

G'day Lyle(Boodog),

to PackardInfo, and I invite you to include your 2362 Deluxe Eight Touring Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry.

Hi....Me Again,

There are two different gasket configurations. Both will work to mount the pumps. The pump from Kanter is one of the best replications I have seen, and is top quality. It was the gaskets that prompted the question. I even got two gasket configurations in my overhaul set. Either will work, but one is set up for an extra port in the pump body.

I have ruled out the exhaust as the source of the "tinking" sound.

I attempted to remove the brass tube again. Got It out about four inches out. Now it won't move in or out. Oooops. Looks like my small block Chevy may go in after all.

I tried to post another reply like this, but I think It went to " never land".

Thanks Agian,
Boodog

Boodog here again,
Any ideas as to what to do with the brass water distribution to, that won't move. (No I don't want to put it there). LOL. It would appear that trying to remove it may have spelled the end for the old engine. I may be able to get it out, if I break out the "heavy equipment", but getting a replacement back in seems unlikely, at this point. I really hate to scrap the engine.
Thanks a bunch,
Boodog

Can you post pictures of your engine, and maybe others can comment. I believe there have been a few discussions on stubborn tubes posted to this site, so you might try searching for them.

Quote:
There have been some who have used an old bandsaw blade. If you have a long thin but stiff piece of metal that might work. If not, Harbor Freight has an inexpensive (around $10) carbon steel blade for their metal cutting saw. It is 1/2" wide, slightly less than a 1/16 thick and roughly 5' long. Once the blade is cut apart it will be a fairly stiff piece of metal which you can cut to length for a comfortable working fit to the engine. It is thin and flexible but usually stiff enough you can work it around the outside of the distribution tube to sort of ease the sediment away. Use rags to hold the blade, start working at the front and ease the blade around the sides toward the rear. The casting is thick, but the tube thin so just be careful not to get too ambitious.

Hello Howard,
That sounds like a possible solution. I would imagine, if I can get the old one out, a new one would go in much easier than this one is coming out. Now, it sounds like finding one will be nearly impossible.
Thanks of the tip,
Boodog

This may not help, but it is another source,
http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2251&start=220

I would imagine, if I can get the old one out, a new one would go in much easier than this one is coming out

Well, obviously when you get the old one out you should thoroughly clean the passage where the new one will be inserted. Something like a large shotgun bore-cleaning brush on a long handle, assisted with plenty of blasts of high pressure water. Removing a core plug or two will no doubt also be helpful to help the debris exit the block. If the new one doesn't just slide in, keep cleaning.

As to availability, I don't think that should be a problem, they've been pretty much continuously available from the major national vendors for many years.