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Re: Mike
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HH56
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The main difference is in the washer functions. The 54 motor is mounted in a tilted position and has the mounting for the washer co-ordinator built into the top cover. The tilt is so the co-ordinator can clear the hydraulic pump mounting bracket.

The old method for controlling the washer by reverse turning of the wiper knob is not used on the 54 system as that washer control is done electrically. The wiper switch has a button in the center of the knob for that function. Vacuum for the washer is taken from a tee in the supply line to the motor rather than being controlled by the motor slide valve. I don't remember and cannot see in the photo if the washer vacuum nipple that is on the left side of the older motors is still present on the 54. If you do not have the nipple then you can find a 54 6v electric lid for the washer if you want to have the co-ordinator and electric operation. Those are identified by a black cap over the solenoid. 12v washer lid caps are red. The jars are the same.

If you want to use the older washer without a co-ordinator it can be done without having the nipple on the motor but you will need to connect it differently. The vacuum will now be from the motor supply side and a Trico washer vacuum pushbutton or something like it that can mount under the dash edge will be the control. You could also use an electric solenoid valve in the vacuum supply line to the washer operated by the regular button or a pushbutton under the dash.

6v solenoid valves are hard to find but Amazon does have one. Have not used it so I truly do not know if it would be suitable for vacuum control or if the ports and flow rate is large enough so it would work in this situation. If you can find something different or have 12v available then there might be more options.

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jpg  WS washer button.jpg (86.53 KB)
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Posted on: 9/26 16:40
Howard
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
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Tobs
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Thanks Howard for the extensive description. I have 53 and a 54 bottle, so I could use either one. The switch on the column is 53 style, so my preference would be to use the correct 53 parts.... First priority was to get the wipers working. Someday I'll get to the washers, but that will be a while. I don't have the 54 coordinator, so my wiper motor is mounted straight....

Posted on: 9/27 6:19
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1969 912, 1990 Miata, 2009 Ford S-Max.
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Re: Mike
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Tobs
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The rebuilt wiper motor works like a charm. I am happy I will not have to worry about that anymore. On to the next challenges! Last time I topped off my fuel tank, there was gas coming out the top of the tank. The fuel level sender must not be sealing, so I will have to drop the tank and will then evaluate if I should also have the inside of the tank resurfaced....I started that job with a wire brush and penetrating oil. I'll soak the hanger bolts and fuel line connection to the tank for a few days before I try and remove any old rusty bolts.
While I was under the car, I saw that the left rear axle seal seems to be leaking. It's not brake fluid. It has the consistency and smell of hypoid oil....So that will be another project to line up for this winter. To replace the seals, do I need to remove the brake drum, axle, outer bearing ring and then get access to the seal? I looked in the cross ref, but couldn't find a number for rear axle seals. If I need bearings, I can get them locally, but it might also be possible to find the seals here in Germany with a part number.

I also checked the motor number on my block. It is M604522 from what I see. That makes it a 1954 359, and one of the last 500 motors. Hope she holds for a long time.
Went for a ride on sunday with my daughters....First time with the heat on. The valve or heater core did not leak onto my carpet! That made me happy

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Posted on: 10/4 14:51
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1969 912, 1990 Miata, 2009 Ford S-Max.
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
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DavidPackard
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Mike;

The process to R&R the axle seal is covered in the shop manual, but to answer your question, yep, the whole kit and caboodle needs to be removed to gain access to the seal. Actually, the seal replacement is somewhat an access convenience item to some larger job such as replacing the brakes or servicing the axle bearings. As long as you’re in there inspect both and replace as necessary.

dp

Posted on: 10/4 17:54
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
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kevinpackard
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I went through the leaking seal replacement last year on the Panama. I documented start to finish beginning here. It's not too bad, though measuring the axle play is a bit of a chore. It gave me the opportunity to redo all the rear brakes as well. I picked up my seals from a place that is no longer in business, so it'd be best to go through Kanter or similar. Dwight has some for the '55 and up, but none yet for the '54 and under.

If the bearings look good, you can clean out the old grease and pack new grease in using the palm of your hand (this is what the service manual recommends). Otherwise you will need to press off the old bearing and press on the new.

-Kevin

Posted on: 10/4 19:50
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Re: Mike's 53 Caribbean
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Tobs
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Thanks you two! Bearings will also be checked and replaced if needed. In a month or so I may start these winter projects. There are still a few nice warm car days left this month.

Posted on: 10/5 15:59
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1969 912, 1990 Miata, 2009 Ford S-Max.
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Re: Mike
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Tobs
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I'm trying to figure out if my Distributor is bad enough to go for a full rebuild or not. The breaker plate should be free to move when the vac advance pulls on it, right? I can't budge anything in there, except the rotor a little bit against the advance springs. I've got a new vac pot on the way, but I think I may wind up pulling the Distributor and going through it. Mechanical advance is working from what I saw with a Timing gun, but vac advance was KO.
Thanks for any Feedback. Dizzy may go to AEM over the Winter, but that will cost a pretty penny if I decide to go that rout.

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Posted on: 10/14 15:23
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1969 912, 1990 Miata, 2009 Ford S-Max.
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Re: Mike
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HH56
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The plate would need to move a few degrees so wonder if that is the correct unit for the car or has something been cobbled together. If it is correct and the plate does not move then I would say a going thru is necessary.

Several of the distributors Packard used in that era had a bracket screwed to the outside for the advance arm to attach. The vacuum portion mounted separately from the distributor and rotated the entire distributor body rather than rotate the plate. On those distributors the plate does not move.

Posted on: 10/14 15:54
Howard
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Re: Mike
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PackardDon
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I like those distributors because you can always tell if the advance is working or not!

Posted on: 10/14 19:15
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Re: Mike
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Ross
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Your dizzzy seems to have one of the aftermarket ball bearing-mounted breaker plates. They are actually very nice but do need to be greased, oh, every 50 years or so. By the vac advance not working your has gotten stuck in place.

It is actually very little work to take one of those distributors apart, clean and lube everything and put it all back. Even changing the $5 upper shaft bushing is only a half hour project once the dist. is out.

Posted on: 10/14 20:25
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