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I’ve seen one with accommodation for a hose which always struck me as odd. None of my cars, whether Packard, Imperial or Cadillac have it.

This is what I'm going to put in. It will be MUCH nicer next time I need to drain coolant as I'll be able to connect a hose that will go through the hole in the frame instead of it just splashing all around a running all over the place.

Got the jute installed on my new floor board. I still need to drill the mounting holes.

Looks really nice!
This might be obvious, but the way I did each mounting hole was to first drill the small hole for the bolt's shaft, then a large counterbore drill bit slightly bigger than the bolts head diameter and its socket OD. That way the mat lays flat yet you can get the socket on them to install easily. If you are using screws, you just need the screw head diameter OD for the larger drill bit. Masking tape around the bit is a good depth gauge on the counterbore drill bit.
Bob J.

I plan to start with a spade bit large enough to counter bore for the depth of the bolt head and washer. The spade will leave a very flat surface and has point that is centered which will then allow me to easily drill the rest of the way through for the bolt to pass through.

Don, here are a couple more photos of the stainless bend I used for the lower radiator hose.

Thanks, Ozstatman! These will help. The photo of all the parts is a big help. This gives me some good approximate dimensions. I know the OD of the pipe is 1.5 inch. Based on that, it looks like the rubber hoses are about 3 inches each and the “legs” of the steel pipe are likely around 4 inches. It also helps to know that you were able to make it work with a 90 degree bend.

All easy parts to get.

I’m revisiting my carburetor issue where the following happens…

About two to three minutes AFTER I shut off the car, I get fuel bubbling out around the accelerator shaft. The fuel is NOT boiling out…it’s not hot to the touch.

So, I called Daytona Parts to talk to them about getting a rebuild kit or having them rebuild. I spoke with Tim and he was SUPER helpful and spent some time with me to talk through what is happening and what may be needed.

When I described what was happening, he asked if my fuel pump had been rebuilt recently. It has been. And, when I thought about it, this issue didn’t come about until after the fuel pump was rebuilt.

He said this issue is actually very common after fuel pumps are rebuilt and the first thing to try was to lower the fuel level in the bowl by adjusting the float.

Here is what he said happens and why… In short, he said the fuel level in the bowl is too high and I need to adjust the float. He said there is seal in the fuel pump valve that was originally phenolic/fiber materiel. He said this material didn’t make a great seal and residual pressure when the car was shut off would be relieved through this seal back to the pump. Then, he said that pumps that are rebuilt today use a rubber seal that creates a very good seal. Therefore, the pressure can only be relieved through the carburetor. Apparently, the reason it takes two or three minutes for this to start happening after the car is shut off is that it takes some time for the temperature to rise (no fan etc…) to cause the fuel to over flow. He said I could confirm this by removing the air cleaner and looking into the carburetor.

So, after a drive, I shut off the car and removed the air cleaner. At this point no fuel was bubbling out and no fuel was going into chambers. Then, about two minutes later, I saw fuel overflowing in the chambers and at that same time, I saw fuel bubbling out of the accelerator shaft.

So, I’ll trying adjusting the float level slightly. Time said to just make a very small adjustment and see if it improves and that it would be an iterative process.. The key is no large adjustments.

I’ll post a follow up once I work up the nerve to tackle yet another item I know little about. I love how much I’m learning along the way!

Carburetor update for today….I made several iterations of adjusting the float. By the time I adjusted it enough to make a noticeable improvement with the overflow, the car would stall just above 35mph. So, too far. In the end, I ended up right where I started, at a level where the car runs great, but I have about the same “overflow” that I had before.

But, I did learn some things, so it was still productive, overall. I had previously never done anything with a carburetor, so now I know how to remove and replace the float and rebuilding the carburetor myself won’t be quite so daunting.

I believe I have also proven that the primary problem is too much pressure building in the line between the fuel pump and carburetor. It’s good while the car is running and for a short time after shutting the car off. The pressure increases just enough after it is shut off due to temperature rise to cause fuel to be pushed into the carburetor and over flow.

The issue now is, what is the logical next step to solve this problem? All thoughts and ideas are appreciated!

Do you have the insulator between the carb base and manifold?

Also, are you sure thermostatic spring is work on the manifold heat riser.

Lastly, maybe the float value needs to be replaced.

Just things that could contribute to carburetor heat soak related issues after the engine is shut off.