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Now that I have been playing with my 48 for a while I decided that it was time to fix the glove box. I know it was flocked originally but I also know that doing that might get really involved . So this is what I did and it worked great. The old one just was falling apart so I finally decided to make a new one. So when I got it out I made a pattern then I raced out and bought box cardboard. What I made with it was great and if gave me a clue to make it better. The biggest problem is that the cardboard was to thin. In looking at the original I realized it was about the same thickness as what a picture framer would use. So I called a friend that did that and asked if I could buy some from him. After I got it he said here I have tons of this stuff that is extra left over from jobs. So he gave me three pieces and I made my first one. It came out excellent but, what I didn't realize was I did it backwards so I took another one and used the original and traced it and cut it out. Then went to Auto Zone and got the same clips that were on the original and with in 5 minutes it was in the car and it looks great. I hope this helps out someone.

That does help me out, i need to make one for my 50, the edges are pretty beat up and i don't think it'd hold in there very well. Thanks for the tips on the framing board and autozone clips!

Am glad you were successful. I have been playing around with a special shortened 56 box and not quite as happy yet. Made several but my problem is it seems the cardboard wants to crack. Have tried several different ones including the photo mat board sold here. Would be curious which matboard you used and if you had that issue. I believe all the Packard boxes were similar thickness -- around .070 or as the art store calls it here, double weight.

I did play some and found my best choice so far is water resistant door panel board. Thickness is about .115 or almost 1/8" but sure makes a nice box. It cracks too but also been playing some with soaking it in water overnight. Even though water resistant, it softens a bit without coming apart. That seems to allow a pretty tight bend -- no cracking but minimal paper bunching on the inside bend -- will get more cardboard and try a real box again.

On the clips, which kind did you wind up with. I couldn't find the original style with the prongs that go thru the cardboard anywhere. We only have very small Autozones out here (used to be Kragen) so not much is on the shelf. Did find a couple of speednuts at McMaster but not quite like the orignals. Here are a couple of photos of my endeavors so far. The speed nuts are also shown and would appreciate knowing if either is what you used.

Flocking is a pain so understand why you chose to avoid it. My results so far are so-so and the trick appears to get a full even coat of adhesive which is proving elusive on a large surface. Also, the cracking shows thru it. Am looking for flocked wallpaper but that is another type store we have very few of here.

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Have you tried scoring the board lightly at the bends, or running some kind of little wheeled tool (like t-15 in the image at the link below) over it at the seams before bending to help eliminate cracking?

http://tireparts.manufacturer.supplierlist.com/productsimages/othertiretools_81468.jpg

The tool looks interesting. I have been using various bending tools including a sheet metal brake and some home made special width benders. Have been reluctant to do the scoring. Unless I am mistaken, wouldn't it have to be on the outside of the bend to do any good. That is where the cracking is happening so would think that would just open it up completely--or am I thinking in reverse? Never did do very well in arts and crafts class.

You are right if you score the board it will bend and give you a sharp edge . I took the original and placed it on the board ( the board was white on the back and tan on the other side) opening of the glove box to white side. Then after I cut it I looed at which was the bends went and scored the opposite side. Does that help? Then I stapled it together (heavy duty) then worked down the ends of the of the staples.

Howard, you want to for sure use a scoring tool. This is what is used by print-shops for printing two page brochures on larger thick card stock. They use a scoring tool to allow a clean page fold. Usually it just a wheel like tool that puts a thin channel/relief in the card stock to enable a clean fold.

Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can find. Just to enlighten me, is the score on the inside of the box bending in or on the outside? If on the outside, won't that open the box up showing the gap? That was one of the issues I had with the repro box I bought years ago--all the bends were cut and showing. There is not any kind of slit apparent on the originals.

I believe they make scoring tools for both. Ones for an outside cut for a flat fold, and others for an inside cut for 90 degree fold.The outside one are sure like a razor cut, while the inside ones either crush, or remove v-shape channel of paper to enable an inside fold. I hope that makes sense.

The clips are made by dorman #8,#14 j-tipo