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Found this query posted in the Chatroom:

"[1stpackard] 5:52 am: Removing oil pan on 1936 -----12 cylinder engine, all bolts are out and pan seems to fastened or stuck along the rear of engine where it abuts the bell housing. This is my first packard and I am stuck with what I expected to be a uncomplicated. Tom and his 1st packard"

I'll PM Tom, 1stpackard, and advise him to refer to this thread.

I had occasion to help a friend remove the oil pan on his 36 Twelve a couple of years ago; can't recall every detail but I don't remember anything special about it. Perhaps a little stubborn gasket cement holding it? But be patient, that cast aluminum can be brittle and pan repair is a bit specialized if you break it.

Thank for the responce. Now we understand what we are dealing with. I will try a little heat.
Tom, 1stpackard

Heat is a BAD idea. The pan may be located using dowels (not sure about this) and may be hanging up on them. Most likely it is because of the gasket being cemented to the engine and pan, as pointed out in an earlier post. You may want to try and gently work a thin putty knife between the pan and block and see if this helps. Also, have you removed the lower bell housing/flywheel cover? I think you would have to remove this part in order to have the pan clear the engine. Do you have access to a service and/or parts manual? They may be available for downloading on this site in the "Packard Literature and Manuals" section. They may not describe the removal procedure, but may have illustrations that will help you to better picture how the pan is affixed to the block. Again, heat is a BAD idea.

(0{I}o)

Tom,

One "trick" I've used to remove stubborn pans, valve covers, timing chain covers, etc.

Find a small knife 2-3" long place the blade in the gap between the two parts.

GENTLY tap on the back of the knife to persuade the two parts to come apart.

Using more than on knife may be helpful. Work a little at a time and don't try and spread the parts apart all in one place.

If this model uses steel dowels to locate the pan to the crankcase there may be electrolytic corrosion between the dissimilar metals that is holding pan tight. Try some penetrating liquid, WD-40, CRC-56, Kroil, etc...

I agree with the other posts - avoid heat.

Regards,

Dave

Just because I'm in a sarcastic mood, I will disagree with the expurts. I say use heat, and a lot of it, and be sure to use at least a 2lb. Hammer. Why such technique, you wonder? Well, for one, I'm not known to be the most patient guy, and second, I have a really nice undamaged V12 oil pan I'd love to sell.

Truthfully, I agree with prior posts. Don't go anywhere near that pan with anything more than patience and whatever wizard snot your local Packard Fortune Saver recommends. Don't even go near it if impatient or in a bad mood.

Great post Flackmaster,

It also helps to have all you tools easily available and arranged in an orderly fashion.

Regards,

Dave

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Allright, when did you get in my shop? Oops, pardon. My toilet plunger is a different brand. Wonder what he used that for. Oil drain couldn't have been that badly plugged.

The oil pan is off the car. An electric heat gun was used. On high range it put out probably 125 to 150 + - degrees. This is just enough to soften the 30 plus year old gasket and glue. A stiff blade putty knife was driven through the joint/ seam between the aluminum pan and cast iron block. Then very thin wood wedges were inserted. A steel hammer was used to strike the pan, causing a vibration in the aluminum pan structure. Between strikes, the all the wedges were driven in a little further. It took an hour but off it came and no damage to the pan.

Thanks, Tom
1stpackard

The oil pan is off the car. An electric heat gun was used. On high range it put out probably 125 to 150 + - degrees. This is just enough to soften the 30 plus year old gasket and glue. A stiff blade putty knife was driven through the joint/ seam between the aluminum pan and cast iron block. Then very thin wood wedges were inserted. A steel hammer was used to strike the pan, causing a vibration in the aluminum pan structure. Between strikes, the all the wedges were driven in a little further. It took an hour but off it came and no damage to the pan.

Thanks, Tom
1stpackard