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It appears my 41 110 was converted to 12 volts however the coil appears to be an auto lite 6 volt coil..is this correct..it has an alternator and the bulk of wiring has been replaced it does not appear that the polarity has been reversed in coil as the rear armored wire still coonects to ignition any help please

Does it actually have a 12v battery? They do make 6v Alternators, so that is why I am asking.

Most coils are actually 6-8v. When a coil is operated at 12v there is either an external ballast resistor added or, some 12v rated coils have an internal resistor. In some more modern cars the resistance is taken care of by the wire feeding the coil supply voltage from the ign sw being a specific length of special wire which has a calculated resistance over the length. If your car has the original coil and none of those additions then while you would have a very hot spark running it at 12v, it would result in excess heat at the coil and a much shorter life for both the coil and points.

As to not switching the polarity, the coil will work either way but the spark is strongest and most efficient when it jumps from the small and hotter center electrode of the plug to the cooler outer shell. With incorrect coil polarity it tries to do the opposite but if the plugs are in good condition can get away with it. On a marginal engine or plug the spark has to work that much harder which can result ln a weak or inconsistent spark and misfires at the plug and hard to start engines. If the coil is producing a hotter spark running on 12v that deficiency would not be seen.

Has two 6 volt in series producing 12

Ok thanks for the help trying to get it started and don't want to burn out anything..will post again

Sounds like another incomplete or botched conversion to 12-volt, seems by far to be the rule rather than the exception. A great reason to be extra cautious when buying a car converted to a different voltage/polarity, I generally recommend passing up on those cars in favor or those that remain authentic or at least, unmolested.

Sorry for your problems, but you'll find the help you need here to get it resolved.

Do you have a good visible spark? You might pull a couple of plugs and check their condition. Sometimes a lot of cranking without the engine starting lets the gasoline moisten and foul the plugs to the point they cannot fire. Also check the points particularly if the coil is at 12v. Look for burning or a blue oxidation covering the points. Even if that isn't seen, it would not be a bad idea to get a point file or burnisher and lightly go over the point contact surfaces anyway. If you don't have a burnisher you can sometimes get away with a rough surfaced paper for a quick clean but don't use any sandpaper or something with a grit that can come off and embed in the points. If the car has been sitting sometimes oxidation from just the environment or dirty oil contaminated air seeping up from the crankcase and concentrating in the dist is enough to coat the points and considerably increase their resistance.

Once you determine if there is a spark and if there is but still won't start, check that the fuel itself is still good.

G'day Jimmyk,
to PackardInfo, and I invite you to include your '41 110 in the Packard Owner's Registry.

Thanks for the help everyone! Finally got wiring figured out and getting good power to starter and rest of vehicle...points were pretty bad so I did not even try to save them..got new set and condenser today and going to try and install them tmrw...any advise would be helpful and gap? I have original firing order from 1941 and it appears two plugs are out of sequence with data sheet...could that. E possible? It ran 20 yrs ago but I don't know how well. Tks in advance