Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Any suggestions on how to get head studs out easily

That should work though you might want to invest in a regular stud remover/installer - good addition to any toolbox. Most work with a cam-action knurled wheel that jams against the shank of the stud and then is powered by a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar.

Wasn't there a recent discussion about cylinder head studs and the two types of threads, cut and rolled, that were used? If I recall correctly cut threads should not be used where the block is tapped for rolled threads, and vice versa. Just a note of caution.

(o[]o)

Oh yeah, stud remover! I actually have exactly one of those that you describe. I bought it a while back and it has been waiting to be used. Hope to try it out soon.
I also Remember the "stud thread" will try and get my own studs out, and if that doesn't work i'll look up the thread size in the parts List.

Max has studs.

I believe MM only lists one type, I forget which one, but watch which type you have and replace accordingly.

(o[]o)

I looked in my parts list... Studs are 7/16-20 x 3 3/32, and since my engine is later than 21st or 22nd series, I should have rolled threads. Nice oddball length of 3 and 3/32 inches long
$3.50 a stud at Max seems like a reasonable price to pay for clean fresh stud.
-Tobs

You may want to check what ARP charges as Max is probably sourcing them from someone else. Just saying.

Just a note, I'm rebuilding my 327 this spring and I called Kanter about the parts needed. The gentleman I talked told me that they try to have the under/over sizes listed in stock, but that's not a guarantee. I was told get a rough idea of what size I need to, to get clean ups and then call to make sure they have it in stock. If they don't, I can get it machined to the next size available.

Well, soon I will have studs coming out my ears. I was able to remove several studs from my old cracked block, but my stud remover left a nice gouge in each stud I removed, which kind of makes me not want to use them for such a critical place like a cylinder head. Anyway I tagged a complete set of new -rolled thread/ interference fit- studs from Kanter onto my rebuild kit...

After removing the first stud, I had to figure out how to get the remover off the stud! That thing wedges itself onto the stud and wouldn't let go! Before the stud was all the way out, I would place the handle of a screwdriver between the remover and a neighbor stud and torque the whole then backwards to loosed the stud remover....
I had looked through ARPs catalog, but they don't list many parts by dimension, only appliaction. I bet a rolled thread 7/16-20 x 3 1/8 should be readily available compared to 3 3/32 long.
And BlackBeerd, I did also call to make certain the correct oversizes are in stock. The block will first be bored out when the shop has the pistons, so they can measure the pistons and then add on the specified bore clearance to the cyl size.
-Mike