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I'm preparing to get the engine ready to test and would like information on what brand and type of battery is the best to use. I'm not converting to 12 volt yet, but keeping the 6 volt system for now. I've heard that Optima is a good brand and seems to last forever. What are your opinions of differing brands and types. I also heard that some classic car enthusiasts use 8 volt batteries in their 6 volt systems without any bad effects on their electrical systems. What would you know about that, also? Thanks for any information you might be able to provide.

I ran a conventional wet lead-acid battery in my 115C for several years before it failed. I think it was from NAPA. The replacement is an Optima. Got it from Amazon. Too soon to tell how it will do, but others are positive in their reviews. I like it because of its smaller size and lighter weight. Lots of cranking amps and will hold a charge for a long period.

(o[]o)

I switch to an Optima, plenty of cranking amps (no need to convert to 12 volt or use an 8 volt battery)and the best part no leaks. My battery tray was being eaten away from the acid coming out with the old lead batteries, it was not much but enough to slowly, over the years little pin holes started showing up. I had replace the lower part of the metal and had it powder coated, had put a new lead battery back in and a month later found corrosion starting again, so since I have switch to the Optima.
Just my 2 cents.
Forgot to mention I put this in a 47 Custom Super Clipper.
Wes

The Optima red top came with the car, been running it for two years, opened it up under the seat to see what it looks like, never touched it again.
Also I have a cut out switch so it turn off all the power when it under the cover
Hope that helps
Will

To all three, thanks for the information. I've asked Optima for the part number for their 6-volt battery and the idea of a cut-out switch is a good one. I really appreciate the responses. Thanks.

Make sure u anchor well
modelastore.com/specials/
optimatrays.com/products/6v-rigid-clamp-tray
or build u a box
so wont tip over

Saw a fire start on a PACKARD a few yrs back because of this

John Ulrich also has a new tray which will replace the original under floor tray and is made to accommodate the Optima battery. Nice thing about an entire new tray is if the old tray is still good you can remove and store it in case you decide to revert to original at a later date.julrichpackard.com/battery.htm

I moved the battery from under the seat to under the hood. Did it with the lead acid and later fit the Optima. Here is a photo showing the installation and the terminal disconnect I bought at NAPA. It is a heavy duty type and works on 6-volt systems. Also moved the horns from the cylinder head to the cowl wall.

(o[]o)

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On another note with a different approach and with a little bit of information. Optima moved their production to Mexico several years ago and it is my understating from a person in the auto battery business that they don't have the same quality as they did have in the past.

I can understand why one would want a sealed cell battery. Antique Auto Battery makes a sealed (AGM) 6 volt battery that looks like the original battery. Not cheap (~$350 to 400) and since they are made upon request there is a lead time.

Surely Optima-type batteries are a good choice for the lighter engines like the sixes and 120s, and the postwar cars. For the heavy prewar senior engines like the Twelves and 320/385 Eights, the truck/commercial Group 4 lead-acid batteries from NAPA and Delco have more cranking amps and tend to last 6-8 years and they would be my choice for those cars. An alternative for these heavy old engines would be dual Optimas wired in parallel for more cranking amps.