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1954 door lock pulls
#1
Just popping in
Just popping in

David Uphoff
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I am working on a 1954 Super Clipper. It's my first Packard. I have purchased new rubber pulls for the door locks (and many other items). One went on flawlessly. The other three not so much luck. I pulled the trim on the right front door and the little serrated "thing" that the rubber attaches to is missing. The right rear door is broken off so short I can't attach the rubber pull to the serrated "thing". After a liberal application of white lithium grease the door locks and unlocks nicely with a hook on the little eye where the "thing" should be attached. Any idea if the serrated "thing" is available anywhere? Or any Idea what the "thing" is called?

On a side note... I'm the third owner. It came from an estate with the last caretaker taking possession in 1977.

Posted on: 7/2 22:06
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#2
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HH56
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I don't know if you will be able to find any new serrated type rods but if any are still available it would be found at one of our vendors such as Kanter Auto or Max Merritt or Tucson Packards. You might find good used from those same vendors or from Packards Southwest or Seattle Packards or just someone on the forum with a parts car. Aside from sedan or hardtop I believe the serrations vs threaded is the main difference. A photo would be convenient to have for anyone you reach out to for a used part so you can get something close if your specific part number is not available.

Some of the hard plastic or metal knobs did unscrew and had pull rods with threaded ends but other models such as yours had the serrated rods where knobs were made of hard rubber and sometimes plastic. Rubber knobs need to be slightly heated for removal before they will release from the serrations. Plastic needs to be heated for installation too. Since the retaining method was usually not visible many times people tried to remove the serrated type by twisting like they unscrewed or just by hard pulling with the results being the broken pull rods.

Packard suggested dealers make a special heater using an old power window cylinder solenoid that would fit over the push on hard rubber knobs and gently soften it on all sides. The temperature needed to soften the knob was given as approximately 150 degrees F. Careful use of a heat gun or hair dryer and working it all around the knob would be the modern method. With either of those heat sources is is important to protect the paint on the finish molding and avoid direct heat on the window glass.

If you cannot find a replacement rod like your existing or even one of Packards threaded end rods, one option might be to make your own rod out of a length of all thread following the general shape of the existing rod. The actual shape is not that critical as long as it follows in the general form of the existing so it clears any obstructions and the length is close so any bare rod did not show above the finish molding. If there is a round section below the serrations, the rod might even be able to be cut and end re-threaded. By use of a coupling nut and a short length of all thread the original length could be restored. Just need to make sure there is room so the wider nut repaired portion did not hit something. You would be replacing the serrated rod with the threaded type but most of the replacement knobs would be able to thread on or if needed, be made to fit and mold over the threads by using some gentle heat.

Here are proper names and part numbers. You will need to find the one listed for your body type to get the correct number. Also posted is a photo of a rear threaded type rod.

Attach file:



jpg  lock rod front.jpg (109.00 KB)
209_62c237f9d6995.jpg 1386X212 px

jpg  lock rod rear.jpg (82.72 KB)
209_62c23805cc158.jpg 1356X200 px

jpg  lock rod.jpg (176.42 KB)
209_62c239b2c88dc.jpg 1200X665 px

Posted on: 7/3 11:18
Howard
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#3
Home away from home
Home away from home

Fish'n Jim
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If you can't find parts, and since one rod is broken off, some options:
install door "poppers".
Cut off and graft/splice (weld) another end that screws onto the Packard rod. So long as they all match won't be as noticeable. A trip to the parts yard for harvesting.
Not many would know the difference. There's dress up ones, chrome, etc in aftermarket too.
Try to thread the rod to accept a screw type button, even if you have to sleeve the button to fit. Drill out and glue in a threaded insert.

Posted on: 7/4 8:01
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#4
Just popping in
Just popping in

David Uphoff
See User information
I found the pulls for the rear doors and installed them. With a half a can of white lithium grease they work wonderfully.

I have also had the water pump rebuilt and installed it. No more coolant dripping from the weep hole. The Flying Dutchman did a wonderful job rebuilding it.

I am still looking for one serrated pull for the front drivers door. I also need to pull the front door handles off to re-key the locks as it did not come with door keys and the trunk key does not work in the doors. Any helpful hints would be appreciated.

Posted on: 8/20 22:55
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#5
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HH56
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The standard Packard key combo was ignition and doors on the round head key. Trunk and glovebox on the octagonal key.

I would suggest you dose and soak well the door handle keepers and channels they slide in with penetrating fluid for a period before trying to remove them. If they are well rusted and stuck it might be best if you do not try pulling them out with the screwdriver prying under the flange as the book suggests. That flange will most likely break off if you try. Instead try removing the lower window stop and see if you can lower the glass down a bit farther to give a clear shot to the far end of the keeper inside the door. Use a rod at an angle and with some taps from a hammer try and get it started from the inside. Once you know it is free you can follow the book. If the keeper is really rusty there is a good chance one or more of the spring tabs holding the handle will break off.

Posted on: 8/21 0:40
Howard
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#6
Home away from home
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humanpotatohybrid
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You can disassemble the ignition switch to make a door key, as they are keyed alike. There's been instructions written on this in the past, but the easiest thing would just be to have a locksmith do it. The DIY method that I did on my car (and other locks) is to buy a key blank and use a square needle file to form the key to match the bitting of the lock. A bit difficult if you've not done it before.

Posted on: 8/21 3:28
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#7
Home away from home
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PackardDon
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As said, use the ignition lock but make your key from the key code that is stamped on the tumbler and make a note of it for future use. Much preferred than making a key from a worn lock that may or may not fit the other locks.

Posted on: 8/21 12:02
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#8
Just popping in
Just popping in

David Uphoff
See User information
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
The standard Packard key combo was ignition and doors on the round head key. Trunk and glovebox on the octagonal key.

The ignition was replaced and has it's own key. This would explain whey there is no door key. The car came from an estate (PO purchased in 1972) and I'm sure sure the concern was selling the car not selling the car complete.

Posted on: 8/21 13:01
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Re: 1954 door lock pulls
#9
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Ozstatman
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G'day David Uphoff,
to PackardInfo and for including your '54 Clipper Super Touring Sedan in the Packard Vehicle Registry.

Posted on: 8/28 22:48
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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